Lady’s Itinerary for 4 Days in Edinburgh, Scotland

Today I want to share my itinerary for 4 days in Edinburgh with you. The capital of Scotland is one of the most beautiful cities in the UK. It’s worth a visit for its hilltop castle, cultural attractions, historic streets, and great shopping, dining, and nightlife scenes. Read on for my Edinburgh itinerary for 4 days.

4 Days in Edinburgh

I’ve traveled to Scotland with a friend and her dog. The three of us are excited to spend a long weekend in Edinburgh (well, we assume the dog feels the same way we do).

I’ve been here many times, but it’s their first time in the city, so we plan a 4-day Edinburgh itinerary that works for both novice and veteran visitors.

Where to Stay for 4 Days in Edinburgh

We arrive in town on a Thursday afternoon and check into our accommodation. My friend has booked us into a great apartment in Edinburgh’s West End.

It’s in an ideal location for exploring Princes Street Gardens, New Town, Stockbridge, and other popular places in Edinburgh.

4 Days in Edinburgh: Day 1

Bags unpacked, we start our 4 days in Edinburgh where any trip should begin: the castle. Well, we start with views of it, anyway.

Princes Street Gardens

Dog at the lead, we head into Princes Street Gardens. These green spaces sit at the heart of Edinburgh’s World Heritage Site between the New Town and the Old Town.

The gardens are lush with flowers and trees, and the fountain in the middle offers spectacular views of Edinburgh Castle on the hulking volcanic rock above us.

Farther along, the Scott Monument awes us with its Victorian Gothic splendor. Dedicated to writer Sir Walter Scott, this iconic landmark is the second largest monument to a writer in the world. There are great views from the top, too.

Royal Mile

Heading out of Princes Street Gardens, we continue the first of our 4 days in Edinburgh by making our way up Cockburn Street to the Royal Mile.

This stretch of road in the Old Town connects Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland.

In between the two famous sites we find ourselves in a wonderland of historic treasures.

From the magnificent spire of St Giles’ Cathedral to the tiny cobbled closes, secret gardens, and narrow stairways, all kinds of beauty vies for our attention.

We walk down the Royal Mile, taking in the views from the castle and ducking through tunnels into little side streets to see what’s there.

We find Bakehouse Close, which was used as a filming location for the print shop in Outlander, walk past The Real Mary King’s Close (it’s one of my favorite secret Edinburgh spots), and wander into the 17th-century garden in Dunbars Close.

Victoria Street and Grassmarket

From the Royal Mile we head down Victoria Street. This curving road is lined with colorful shopfronts housing great clothing stores, pubs, and restaurants. It’s one of my favorite places in Edinburgh.

We pop into a few shops, then continue to the bottom of the hill and find ourselves in Grassmarket. This square is steeped in history, and it was once the site where local farmers brought their produce to sell.

However, it’s best known for being the site of public hangings (there’s even a pub on Grassmarket called The Last Drop).

Today Grassmarket is a lively area packed with pubs, bars, and restaurants. It’s a fun place to have a drink or take in the atmosphere.

Greyfriars Kirkyard and Greyfriars Bobby

From Grassmarket we continue the first of our 4 days in Edinburgh by wandering into Greyfriars Kirkyard.

The most famous graveyard in Edinburgh, it’s not only home to beautiful old headstones that back against the walls of neighboring buildings, but also a local legend.

A Skye Terrier named Greyfriars Bobby is said to have guarded the grave of his owner, John Gray, in the churchyard for 14 years after his death.

The dog has been commemorated in front of the 400-year-old church and in a famous statue outside the graveyard.

Greyfriars Kirkyard is also known for its Harry Potter connections. Some of the names on the gravestones gave J. K. Rowling inspiration for the names of characters in the books, including Tom Riddle and Professor McGonagall.

It makes sense, as she wrote some of the novels right around the corner in The Elephant House cafe on George IV Bridge.

Dinner in Edinburgh

Heading out of Greyfriars Kirkyard, we walk past Greyfriars Bobby and The Elephant House as we make our way back down to the New Town.

We settle in for dinner at Le Di-Vin, a fun wine bar housed in an old church in the West End. The food and drinks go down a treat, and we toast to a great first day in Edinburgh.

4 Days in Edinburgh: Day 2

The next morning we wake up to sunny skies and decide to spend the second of our 4 days in Edinburgh in Fife. It’s one of the best day trips from Edinburgh, and we can’t wait to see the coast and countryside.

Pittenweem

My friend has rented a car, so we hop in and hit the road. Our mini Scotland road trip itinerary begins in Pittenweem. This fishing village in the East Neuk of Fife is home to a scenic harbor, pastel houses, and beautiful coastline.

We grab a coffee at one of the cafes on the high street, then walk down a charming street to get to the waterfront.

We take in the colorful boats before meandering along the Fife Coastal Path. We can see all the way to North Berwick on the other side of the Firth of Forth from here.

We also spot some of the best islands to visit in Scotland, including Bass Rock and the Isle of May.

St Andrews

The next stop on our day trip from Edinburgh is St Andrews. This famous university town is known for its golf courses, castle and cathedral ruins, and seaside scenery.

We start by walking through the main streets, taking in the buzzing restaurants and cafes as we make our way to the Old Course.

We walk past the iconic Swilcan Bridge at the 18th hole to get to our lunch destination: the Jigger Inn. This iconic “19th hole” is an atmospheric Victorian pub with great views over the greens.

We settle in for lunch in the beer garden, enjoying traditional Scottish cullen skink (delicious smoked haddock soup) and sticky toffee pudding. It’s the perfect meal for a big day of sightseeing.

Speaking of which, we continue our day trip from Edinburgh with a walk past the beach and through some of the buildings of the University of St Andrews. Dating back to 1413, it’s home to countless heritage buildings and lots of picture-pretty streets.

Eventually we get to the 13th-century St Andrews Castle, where we admire the ruins on the waterfront. It’s not far from the remains of St Andrews Cathedral, which dates back to 1158 and looks stunning in the sunshine.

Culross

Back in the car, we drive through the heart of Fife, passing pretty towns and villages like Falkland as we make our way to Culross.

Culross is a seaside village with rich historic roots and beautiful houses. The place has a fairy-tale charm to it, what with its bright yellow facades and cobblestone streets. It’s said to be Scotland’s most complete example of a burgh of the 17th and 18th centuries.

We spend a while walking around, taking photos, and finding more Outlander filming locations (Culross played the part of the fictional village of Cranesmuir, which was close to Castle Leoch).

Eventually we walk up to Culross Abbey, which was built in the 1200s and is still home to the parish church today. The ruins look beautiful in the fading light of day.

4 Days in Edinburgh: Day 3

The next morning our 4 days in Edinburgh continue as we set out to explore more of the city. My friend wants to see some off-the-beaten-path places in Edinburgh, and I know just where to take her.

Stockbridge

We walk from our apartment in the West End to Stockbridge, one of the most beautiful places in the city.

We stumble upon Fortitude Coffee, where we start the day with delicious lattes and some of the best French toast I’ve had in a long time.

Fueled, we walk down Saint Stephen Street to take in the area’s independent shops and cafes. The historic Stockbridge Market Arch catches our eyes as we go.

From there we walk down Circus Lane, one of the most photographed streets in Stockbridge. We snap a few photos, then head down to the Water of Leith.

The tree-lined walking path by the river makes us feel like we’re a million miles from the city, and the temple-like St. Bernard’s Well is an eye-catching 18th-century accent.

Dean Village

Soon we come to Dean Village, one of the prettiest places in Edinburgh. This historic area on the Water of Leith is home to heritage buildings in all colors and shapes. Once known for milling, today it’s a peaceful residential area.

Up the hill from Dean Village, we explore some of the pretty mews streets in Edinburgh before heading back into Stockbridge to pick up lunch at the famous Bross Bagels.

Smoked salmon goes down a treat as we make our way to the next stop on our 4-day Edinburgh itinerary.

Bookshops in Edinburgh

Said stop is a bookshop. Well, two of them. We both love books, so we head first to Topping and Company Booksellers and then to Armchair Books.

The former is set over two floors, with the upper one housing a warren of rooms complete with ladders and windows with views of Edinburgh’s iconic skyline. It’s a dream come true for book lovers and travelers alike.

The latter is a tiny hole-in-the-wall near Grassmarket. Its dusty interior is reminiscent of bookshops of old, and it transports us back in time.

Teatime in Edinburgh

After the bookshops we’re in need of rest. We stumble upon The Chaumer, an independent teahouse and wine bar on Queen Street in Edinburgh’s New Town.

It’s just the place for an afternoon snack, and the elegant decor and pretty pastries make me want to stay forever.

Rosslyn Chapel

But time is wearing on, and we continue the third of our 4 days in Edinburgh with a trip to Rosslyn Chapel. Just 30 minutes’ drive from the West End, it’s famous for both its Da Vinci Code connections and historical significance.

Unfortunately, we arrive late in the day and tickets are sold out (we should have booked online in advance).

I’ve visited before, but my friend hasn’t, so we walk past the visitor center entrance and find a little walking path that leads around to the back. It gives us great views of the chapel’s exterior, which is a nice consolation.

We also discover a number of longer walking trails in the area, many of which look appealing for future visits. We make a mental note to return someday.

Evening in Edinburgh

Back in the Scottish capital, we round out the third of our 4 days in Edinburgh with a whiskey tasting near Edinburgh Castle.

We walk up to the Whiski Rooms and settle in at an outdoor table. It’s the perfect place to sample a flight of one of the most famous Scottish drinks.

I choose the Speyside Malts flight, the highlight of which is the Glen Elgin 12 Year Old. My friend, who’s new to Scotch, goes with the introductory flight. Her favorite is the classic Highland Park.

Tasting finished, we make our way to The Castle Arms pub for a fun dinner. Everyone’s in a convivial mood, and we meet people from Norfolk, the United States, and other parts of the world. It’s a great way to end the evening.

4 Days in Edinburgh: Day 4

The next morning we start the last of our 4 days in Edinburgh with breakfast at Modern Standard Coffee in Bruntsfield. My latte goes down a treat with a cinnamon roll, and the combination sets me up for the day.

It’s a good thing, too, because it’s a big day. My friend and her dog take an early train back to London, so I make plans to meet up with local friends and explore some new-to-me parts of Edinburgh.

Scottish National Portrait Gallery

But first I can’t resist popping into one of the best museums in Edinburgh: the Scottish National Portrait Gallery. The Great Hall is one of my favorite rooms in any museum in the world.

Its frescoes and murals depict key figures and events in the history of Scotland, all against a dramatic double-height backdrop of gold, lanterns, and arches. There are constellations on the ceiling, too.

After the gallery I head over to Soderberg, a bakery and coffee shop known for its cinnamon rolls. The bees have gotten to the rolls today, but I enjoy a sandwich by the window before heading off to see friends.

Calton Hill

The first friend meets me at a cute cafe called Pep & Fodder near Calton Hill. After getting a tea, we walk up the slope to take in the famous views of the city and pop into the little art gallery in the old City Observatory.

The Meadows

From there we take a big walk over to The Meadows, passing through the University of Edinburgh as we go. The Meadows is a leafy park, and it’s full of people out enjoying the Scottish sunshine.

Morningside

Leaving the park, we walk over to Morningside, a local neighborhood I’ve never been to before. The high street is packed with great shops and restaurants, and we settle in at La’Telve for lunch.

Afterwards we walk through some of the area’s pretty side streets, admiring the houses as we make our way to the Union Canal. We head along the towpath, admiring the colorful boats and stand-up paddle boarders as we go.

Stockbridge

Eventually we stroll through the West End to Stockbridge, where I say good-bye to my friend and rest my feet over a cup of tea at Patisserie Florentin.

Re-energized, I meet Olli, a fellow Instagrammer from My Edinburgh.

She takes me to Dean Gardens, which are usually closed to the public but are welcoming everyone for Doors Open Days. The event gives free access to hundreds of fascinating buildings and spaces across Scotland every year.

Dean Gardens sits on the Water of Leith opposite the public path. It’s great to explore the hilly trails and see St. Bernard’s Well from a unique perspective.

After visiting the gardens, Olli takes me down Ann Street, another of the most beautiful streets in Edinburgh. From there we discover pretty places like Dean Park Mews as she leads me around to the eye-catching Fettes College and through Inverleith Park.

Dinner in Edinburgh

Back by the Water of Leith, we part ways and I walk back into New Town to get ready to go to the airport. I struggle to find a restaurant that’s open for dinner on Sunday as I walk down Rose Street and other roads trying to find somewhere appetizing.

Eventually I luck out with Umai, a sushi and ramen restaurant where I tuck into a delicious ahi poke bowl. It’s a great end to the trip and a good send-off to the airport.

4 Days in Edinburgh

As my flight takes off, I’m sad my 4 days in Edinburgh have come to an end. Being back in one of my favorite places in Scotland has been a treat, and I’m glad I’ve gotten to explore more of it than I had on previous trips.

The city certainly showed me (and my friend and her dog) a good time, and I can’t wait to come back and discover more next time. I hope this 4-day Edinburgh itinerary helps you explore the city, too.

Find this post helpful? Buy me a coffee!

New here? Join thousands of others and subscribe to the A Lady in London blog via email.

Some of the links in this blog post are affiliate links. At no cost to you, I earn a small commission when you click on them and make a purchase. It doesn’t affect the way you shop, and it’s a great way to support the A Lady in London blog.

Pin it!