Lady’s Exciting Guide to Le Havre, France

Le Havre is a city of contrasts. Historic and modern, lines and curves, and land and sea juxtapose and harmonize at the same time. I’ve partnered with Normandy Tourism for a visit, and today I’m excited to bring you this advertising feature about Le Havre, France.

Le Havre, France

Le Havre lies at the point where the Seine meets the English Channel. Badly damaged in World War II, its city center was redesigned by architect Auguste Perret in a classic Modernist style.

While concrete isn’t to everyone’s taste, the city has become a hip destination for design lovers in recent years. Known for its architecture, markets, museums, and beaches, today Le Havre is a great place for a city break.

Visiting the City

I’m visiting for a night to take in the highlights of Le Havre before continuing on to Dieppe. I can’t wait to see what the city has to offer, and I’m excited to explore a place I’ve heard relatively little about.

Ferry to Le Havre

Getting to the city is a fun adventure. Brittany Ferries runs an overnight ferry from Portsmouth to Le Havre, and after a train ride from London to Portsmouth & Southsea, it’s a quick taxi journey to the harbor.

I have a cabin booked for the overnight crossing, and it comes with a bed, bathroom, and views of the water. Once on board, I settle in for the night. I wake up feeling a bit groggy, but excited to see Le Havre.

Where to Stay in Le Havre

I’m staying at Hotel Vent d’Ouest, a place with a nautical theme in the heart of the city. It has a cozy feel and elegant furnishings, and I love how my room has wood furniture and wallpaper with books on it.

Things to Do in Le Havre, France

After dropping off my bags, I set off to explore with a guide. There are a lot of great things to do in Le Havre, and Adeline makes sure I cover the best of them.

Le Bout du Monde

She starts by driving me into the hills to show me the city’s historic villas and coastal views. We stop at Le Bout du Monde, where there’s a lighthouse and cliffs overlooking the channel.

As we walk out to get a better look at the water, Adeline points out the ships. She’s one of many people who does this throughout my trip, and it shows how much life in the city revolves around the sea.

Hanging Gardens in Le Havre

Our next stop is the Hanging Gardens in Le Havre. They’re set in a former fort overlooking the Seine Estuary. We walk up to the four bastions, each of which is dedicated to a great botanist explorer’s discoveries.

There are also amazing views from the highest parts, and it’s great to have such a vantage point for photography.

Beach

Back in the city, we head to the beach. There are 713 beach huts along the 1.2-mile (2-kilometer) stretch of shoreline.

Over 500 of them were painted by Dutch artist Karel Martens in 2017 for the celebration of the 500th anniversary of the founding of Le Havre.

The colors follow a coded rhythm, and they’re a cheerful addition to the waterfront.

Andre Malraux Modern Art Museum

Not far from the beach, we visit a place that shows off more of Le Havre’s artistic side.

The Andre Malraux Modern Art Museum (MuMa) features an impressive collection of paintings by Renoir, Monet, Manet, Pizarro, Boudin, and other big names.

In fact, it has the second largest Impressionist art collection in France after the Musee d’Orsay in Paris.

The museum itself has sweeping sea views, making the water and ships look like they’re a living work of art, too.

Catene de Containers in Le Havre

A short walk away, we find ourselves in front of Vincent Ganivet’s Catene de Containers, a larger-than-life work of art on the waterfront.

A parabola of colorful shipping containers arcs over a semi-circle of the same. Their bright colors and curves contrast with the straight lines and muted hues of the modern buildings around them.

The artwork adds a layer of 21st-century modernity on top of the 20th-century buildings, and has become a new symbol of the city since it was installed in 2017.

Bibliotheque Oscar Niemeyer in Le Havre

And speaking of 20th-century architecture, our next stop is the famous Oscar Niemeyer-designed library in Le Havre. The Bibliotheque Oscar Niemeyer was created in 1982 by the famous architect, and turned into a library in 2015.

Niemeyer was most famous for designing Brazil’s capital, Brasilia (and interestingly, Le Havre and Brasilia are the only two cities built after World War II to have UNESCO World Heritage Site status).

I studied his work in an architectural history class I took in college, and seeing some of it up close is inspiring. I love the way the stark white exterior and curving lines contrast with Perret’s buildings around them.

Inside, everything from the walls to the chairs has the same curving lines. The light is beautiful, and the space has an amazing flow to it.

Auguste Perret Architecture in Le Havre

No visit to Le Havre would be complete without admiring the work of Auguste Perret, and in the afternoon I go around the city with another guide to take it in.

Olivier takes me on a walking tour of Le Havre, showing me everything from the stunning stained-glass windows of St Joseph’s Church to the 1950s interior of the Perret Show Flat and the bridge in the Bassin du Commerce.

He even takes me up to the 17th floor of the Hotel de Ville to see the panoramic views and admire how Perret laid out the city.

Le Havre Markets

When I’m not busy sightseeing in Le Havre, I’m letting Normandy’s legendary culinary offerings tempt my taste buds.

The morning fish market is a great place to see the city’s seafood offerings. I walk from stall to stall, taking in the sights of scallop shells and sounds of traders doing a brisk business.

The covered market in Place des Halles Centrales is another food lover’s paradise. Row after row of stalls is packed with mouth-watering produce in every color, all of it looking fresh and ready to go into the region’s cuisine.

Restaurants in Le Havre

And said cuisine can be found at great restaurants in Le Havre. The breakfast buffet at my hotel has buttery croissants, sweet strawberry jam, and juicy melon.

A lunch at Les Enfants Sages not only reveals how good sea bass with sauce vierge and mashed potatoes can be, but also how enjoyable lunch in a garden can feel.

Dinner at Le Grignot is a classic French experience. With wooden chairs, white tablecloths, and ceramic jugs lining the walls, it has great ambiance.

The restaurant specializes in seafood, so I tuck into a heaping bowl of moules frites. I follow it up with a huge helping of ice cream with Chantilly cream on top, and it’s everything I hoped it would be.

Train from Le Havre to Dieppe

After a good night’s rest in Hotel Vent d’Ouest, I’m up early to take the train from Le Havre to Dieppe.

It’s an easy journey and has the added benefit of letting me spend an hour in Rouen en route. It’s one of my favorite places in Normandy, and I’m glad for the chance to walk around and see the sights.

When I arrive in Dieppe, I’m excited to see another part of Normandy and curious to discover whether it will provide as much of a contrast to Le Havre as Le Havre provided to itself. You can find the answer here.

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This is an advertising feature with Normandy Tourism.