Lady’s Guide to a Day Out in Dulwich

Every time I think I’ve seen all of London, someone mentions a neighborhood I’ve never been to. Today it’s Dulwich, a place I vaguely know is south of the river and home to a famous museum. Excited to discover more of the city, I head off to Victoria station and hop on a train for a day out in Dulwich.

I arrive at West Dulwich station not long later, and realize I’m due south of central London and not nearly as far away from the areas I normally circulate in as I thought.

Crossing the street, I make my way past seemingly endless cricket pitches—there must be more per capita here than anywhere else in the world—and along the pretty green expanse of Belair Park.

Up ahead is what I’ve come to this London neighborhood to see: the Dulwich Picture Gallery.

The museum is one of the most famous in London, and for good reason. It was the first purpose-built public art gallery in the world.

Founded in the early 19th century when Sir Francis Bourgeois bequeathed his collection of old masters “for the inspection of the public”, the Dulwich Picture Gallery remains on the forefront of the art scene with high-profile exhibitions, public events, and community projects.

Add to that a beautifully designed building by famous architect Sir John Soane and a permanent collection of impressive Baroque masterpieces, and it’s worth a special day out from central London.

After breakfast at the cafe, I explore both the permanent collection and an exhibition, thoroughly impressed by both the art and the building itself. How have I never made an effort to come here before?

But I soon discover that as impressive as the museum is, the area around it makes a day out in Dulwich just as worthwhile.

Walking past Dulwich Park, I head up to Dulwich Village. On the way, I peek into the beautiful courtyard of St Barnabas with Christ’s Chapel and admire the lovely houses along the road outside.

Up the street, sweet little cafes and bakeries vie with the bright colors of a flower shop for my attention.

Over on a side street I duck into Village Books, a little independent bookstore that has a great atmosphere, good selection, and friendly staff. It’s all so idyllic I can hardly believe I’m still in London.

Continuing my day out in Dulwich, I walk through residential streets full of picturesque houses en route to East Dulwich.

Lordship Lane is the center of activity here, and I stop for lunch at Franklins, an unassuming place with surprisingly good food.

Across the street is their farm shop, complete with vegetables spilling out the front and a food cart with delicious aromas luring me in.

It’s not far from a cluster of shops selling everything from funky vintage homewares to fashionable accessories.

But I like the outdoor North Cross Road Market best.

Stalls selling everything from fresh produce to handmade jewelry fill the street with life and color, and as I browse the wares of an eclectic antiques vendor, the scent of hot popcorn envelops me like a hot, buttery hug.

Around the market are more temptations, from a cheese shop to a gelateria. But equally appealing are the enormous works of street art that I didn’t expect to see in a neighborhood like this.

I later learn that many of them are the result of a collaboration between street artists and the Dulwich Picture Gallery, which brings my day out in Dulwich full-circle.

As I hail a taxi and head back to central London, my head is full of the colors, sights, and smells of Dulwich.

It’s hard to believe it’s taken me years to get here, but it also reminds me why I love living in London so much. There’s always somewhere new to explore, and I can travel a great deal without going a great distance.

Have you done a day out in Dulwich? What were the highlights?

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