Scottish Borders Guide

If there’s an underrated part of the UK, it’s the Scottish Borders. This area in southern Scotland is packed with beautiful coastline, stately homes, heather-covered moors, and rolling hills. It’s overlooked in favor of the Scottish Highlands, but there’s so much to discover here that it’s worth a special trip. I should know. I used to spend so much time in the Borders I practically lived here. If you want to learn more, read on for a A Lady in London’s Scottish Borders guide.

The Scottish Borders lie just north of the English frontier. Spanning 1,800 square miles, the region is situated south of Edinburgh and The Lothians, east of Dumfries and Galloway, and north of England’s Northumberland and Cumbria.

It’s one of 32 council areas of Scotland, and is comprised of the historic counties of Berwickshire, Peeblesshire, Roxburghshire, Selkirkshire, and part of Midlothian.

Because the Scottish Borders were at the epicenter of historic conflicts with England, the region is littered with the ruins of castles, towers, and abbeys.

It also has a large number of stately homes, evidence of various monarchs granting titles and land to those that allied with them in battles and wars.

Above all, it has bucolic scenery with the River Tweed running through it, and a lack of crowds that makes it perfect for escaping to the countryside. In short, it’s one of the best under-the-radar places to travel in Scotland.

How to Get to the Scottish Borders

It’s easy to get to the Scottish Borders by train or car. By rail, the East Coast Main Line runs from London to Berwick-upon-Tweed, from where it’s a quick drive across the border into the region.

If you’re traveling from Edinburgh, the train also stops at Dunbar and North Berwick in East Lothian.

Additionally, the Borders Railway means there are trains connecting Edinburgh to Tweedbank in just under an hour. They stop at multiple stations in the Scottish Borders, so it’s convenient to get to where you need to go.

Once in the area, it’s easiest to get around by car. If you don’t want to drive, there are also buses that serve the region.

There are great walking paths and cycling routes, too, so if you’re feeling adventurous you can explore the Borders without a vehicle.

Where to Stay

If you’re going to visit the Scottish Borders for more than a day, there’s no shortage of places to stay.

Larger towns like Galashiels, Hawick, Peebles, Selkirk, and Kelso have accommodation, and there’s everything from hotels to cottages on offer in the countryside.

My top pick for a place to stay in the Scottish Borders is SCHLOSS Roxburghe Hotel. This 19th-century property is my favorite place for lunch in the region. The sumptuous interiors tempt me to stay all day, and the fairy-tale building, spa, and golf course are enough to keep me here for many more.

Things to Do in the Scottish Borders

In fact, there are so many things to do in the Scottish Borders that it’s worth spending a few days here. From castles to coastal walks, abbey ruins to stately homes, there’s something for everyone.

I spent three years exploring the area and still haven’t seen everything I want to see.

That said, if you’re pressed for time you can still enjoy a great day here. I’ve written a guide to days out in the Scottish Borders that can help you narrow down the choices.

Stately Homes in the Scottish Borders

One of the best things to do in the Scottish Borders is visit the many stately homes. From aristocrats to authors, many notable people have built grand country houses in the region.

My favorite of them is Sir Walter Scott’s Abbotsford House. This beauty is straight out of one of his epic tales, what with its towers and turrets. Inside, the library is the stuff of dreams. Outside, the gardens are stunning in spring and summer.

Other stately homes in the Scottish Borders include Mellerstain House with its beautiful grounds and Manderston House with its impressive silver-plated staircase.

Furthermore, Traquair House is famous for being Scotland’s oldest inhabited house, and has hosted 27 Scottish queens and kings. Floors Castle is another stunning country house, and the gardens are worth a visit in their own right.

Castles and Towers in the Scottish Borders

In addition to stately homes, there are a number of impressive castles and ruins in the Scottish Borders.

Duns Castle has a Norman Keep that dates from 1320. It’s now an events venue and is a beautiful place to walk by while visiting the town of Duns.

On the more ruined side, Hume Castle sits on top of a hill and has panoramic views across the countryside.

As far as towers go, there are some impressive ones in the Scottish Borders. Smailholm Tower is a 15th-century peel tower on a high rocky outcrop near Kelso. It has connections to Sir Walter Scott, as his family once owned it.

Not far away, Greenknowe Tower is a 16th-century tower house near Gordon. It was more of a residence than a defensive fortress, but the ruin is impressive all the same.

Abbey Ruins

And speaking of ruins, there are abbey ruins dotted throughout the Scottish Borders.

Melrose Abbey is one of the most famous. It was founded in 1136 by Cistercian monks at the request of King David I of Scotland. There’s a great audio-guide that brings its history back to life today.

There are other impressive abbey ruins around, too. Jedburgh Abbey is a ruined 12th-century Augustinian abbey, and Dryburgh Abbey was the premier house in Scotland of the Premonstratensian order.

Kelso Abbey sits right in the town of the same name. Its arches are a testament to the presence of the community of Tironensian monks who established it.

Towns and Villages

Beyond the ruins, the towns and villages in the Scottish Borders are worth visiting. From Peebles with its golf connections to Duns with its bear statue, each one has something unique.

Kelso is one of my favorite towns in the Scottish Borders. It has a mix of shops, squares, and ruins to give it character. It’s also right next to Floors Castle and SCHLOSS Roxburghe Hotel, so it’s a good place base yourself for a visit.

Selkirk is another great town. It has connections to Sir Walter Scott, who was once sheriff here. Sir Walter Scott’s Courtroom is a small museum with information about his tenure dispensing justice in Selkirkshire.

Melrose is also a pretty Borders town. The abbey ruins are the main draw, but there are shops, restaurants, and gardens that make it worth staying longer to explore.

St Boswells is another gem. I love the shops here, not least The Mainstreet Trading Company. This bookshop, cafe, deli, and home store has everything I need to be happy.

On the coast, it’s hard to beat St Abbs for atmosphere. This fishing village is full of color and character, not to mention good seafood.

Country Walks in the Scottish Borders

There are a lot of great country walks in the Scottish Borders, too. From heather moors to coastal paths, this area has an abundance of natural beauty to take in.

One of my favorite walks is to St Abb’s Head Lighthouse. This walk from St Abbs to a nearby nature reserve on a rocky promontory has some of the most dramatic scenery in the area.

Another coastal walk in the Scottish Borders goes from Cove to Siccar Point. The harbor in Cove is one of the prettiest in the region, and its colorful boats are a delight.

The path from Cove winds along Pease Bay on its way to Siccar Point, which offers sweeping views of the sea.

Inland, St Cuthbert’s Way covers the ground between Melrose and England’s Lindisfarne. This long-distance walking trail passes abbey ruins and goes through the Cheviot Hills.

But my favorite place to walk in the Scottish Borders is the heather. The moors are spectacular in late summer when the pink flowers are in bloom. The Lammermuir Hills are ideal for seeing it up close.

You can read my guide to seeing heather in Scotland for more details, but trust me when I say that the Lammermuirs are some of my favorite places to visit in the UK in summer.

Where to Eat in the Scottish Borders

All the sightseeing and walking will likely make you hungry, and there’s no shortage of good food around.

The aforementioned SCHLOSS Roxburghe Hotel is a great place for a long lunch, and The Mainstreet Trading Company in St Boswells is perfect for something lighter.

But the real treat in the Borders is the seafood. St Abbs has some of the best shellfish around, and it’s always fresh. Ebbcarrs Cafe is the perfect place for it, especially if you can get an outdoor table on a sunny day.

What to Wear in the Scottish Borders

If you’re wondering what to wear in the Scottish Borders, you can take a look at my British country clothing guide. It will help you figure out how to dress like a local and be prepared for all weather.