Today I want to bring you my itinerary for a weekend trip to Paris at Christmas. The City of Light comes alive each winter with lights, markets, decorations, and cheer. It’s a great place to visit in the run-up to December 25th, and there’s a lot to do and see during the festive season. I’m here now and I can’t wait to share my experience with you. I’ve included a map, too.
Paris Christmas Weekend Trip Itinerary
Paris is the stuff of dreams at any time of year, but at Christmas it really shines. From festive chalets selling seasonal drinks to twinkling lights illuminating the landmarks and larger-than-life decorations festooning the shops, it’s magical.
With plenty of delicious food (this is France, after all) and great Christmas shopping opportunities, it’s impossible not to love this part of Europe at the start of winter.
Which is why I keep coming back. I’ve taken many Christmas trips to Paris over the years, and I’m as excited for this one as I’ve been for all the others. I hope my itinerary inspires you to plan a festive weekend getaway of your own.
Where to Stay
I’m staying with friends on this trip. They live on the Right Bank in the beautiful 8th arrondissement near the Champs-Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe.
I’ve stayed in this area many times before and I lived here for a summer during my university years, so I know it well. It’s a great place for a home base in the city, not least because of its central location and proximity to several metro stations.
If you want to follow in my footsteps, my favorite hotels in the area are the Prince de Galles and the Four Seasons George V. I’ve stayed at both, and I can personally vouch for how good they are. You can book a room at the Prince de Galles here or a room at the Four Seasons here. My guide to the best area to stay in Paris has additional ideas, too.
Friday
But I’m getting ahead of myself. First I have to get to Paris. I arrive at St Pancras station in London early on Friday morning and board a 7:30am train to France.
My train pulls into Gare du Nord just before 11am, and soon I’m hopping on the metro to get to my friends’ place. After I settle into their guest room, we head out for lunch.
Lunch
We’re going to Bacha Coffee on the Champs-Elysees. After being enamored with its counterpart on my last trip to Marrakech, I’m excited to try the Parisian outpost.
As soon as I walk in, I’m awed by the place. The multi-level space is stunning. From the colorful shop on the ground floor to the airy dining room upstairs, the aesthetics win me over.
As does the food. We order the 3-course set menu and enjoy a meal of inventive dishes and decadent coffee-laced desserts. This being Bacha, we can’t help finishing our meal with drinks from its book-like coffee menu.
Park Monceau
After lunch I walk up the Champs-Elysees to see the festive Christmas decorations on the shops. From lights to trees and baubles, they’ve gone all-out for the season.
From there I walk to Parc Monceau, my favorite green space in Paris. This local number was established by Phillippe d’Orleans, the Duke of Chartres, in the late 18th century. The Duke was a friend of the Prince Regent, later George IV, and he loved all things English.
As such, he wanted to create a public English garden. He modeled it after Stowe House in Buckinghamshire, and he included architectural follies and water features dotted amongst the paths.
As I walk alongside a reconstruction of an ancient Roman colonnade, past antique statues, and around a pond, I take in the last of the autumn leaves and watch someone putting up Christmas decorations.
Christmas Market
Leaving Parc Monceau, I stroll down the famous Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore to see the Christmas lights on the way to the Jardin des Tuileries.
Sandwiched between the Louvre, the Seine, the Place de la Concorde, and the Rue de Rivoli, the historic garden hosts one of the biggest Christmas markets in Paris each year.
I arrive just as the sun is setting. As I descend the steps, I take in a giant spinning tower, carnival rides and games, food vendors, craft stalls, and more. It reminds me of Winter Wonderland in London, only with a French twist.
I spend time walking around the market, marveling at how big it is and how much there is to do and see here. I watch the whirling funfair rides, walk through the food section of the market, and check out the gifts for sale in the festive chalets.
Lights
After exploring, I walk over to Place Vendome and Rue Saint-Honore to see the Christmas lights and decorations. The former is full of Christmas trees, and the latter has all the big-name luxury goods shops. The displays on the Dior and Chanel boutiques are particularly stunning.
Drinks
When I’m done admiring the lights, I walk back through the Tuileries and across the Seine to see a friend for drinks. Serendipitously, she’s in town for the night at the end of a trip to Bordeaux.
We meet for a glass of wine at her accommodation, the Hotel Pont Royal. It’s on the Left Bank in the Latin Quarter, and it has a cozy bar with friendly staff.
Afterwards I stroll back to my friends’ place in the 8th. Along the way I’m treated to spectacular views of the Eiffel Tower from the Pont de la Concorde bridge.
Dinner
At dinner o’clock, we enjoy vegan rolls from Bloom Sushi. This restaurant in the 17th arrondissement is known for its inventive Japanese-inspired cuisine. From the Dragon Eyes roll to the veggie Tuna Bliss, the food goes down a treat.
Saturday
The next morning my Paris Christmas trip continues with some shopping. ‘Tis the season, after all, and Paris is my favorite place in the world for retail therapy.
My friends live near Sezane’s Le Grand Appartement in the 17th. Given I’m a bit obsessed with this French fashion brand, I walk over to the shop and start my day by picking out a few Christmas presents for myself. An hour later, I walk out with a new sweater, a pair of earrings, and some jeans.
Lunch
Mission accomplished, I walk a few steps over to have lunch at Le Retro. This little restaurant has great historic atmosphere and friendly staff. The weekend menu is limited, but I enjoy a simple meal and head out for more shopping.
Christmas Shopping
I walk down to Opera to get to some of the most famous department stores in Paris. I’m not only here to shop for gifts, but also to take in the Christmas decorations. They’re some of the best in the city every year.
I start at Printemps. This famous store is housed in a series of historic buildings with beautiful domes on top. I head to the upper floors of the women’s shop to take in the stunning Christmas tree and outdoor ice skating rink.
From there I walk down the street to Galeries Lafayette. It’s crowded, but I manage to catch a glimpse of the stunning decorations under the store’s famous central dome. They’re glowing golden, and I can hardly believe how beautiful the whole place looks.
Christmas Markets
Leaving the grands magasins, I drop my bags off at my friends’ place before heading out to explore more of the big Christmas markets in Paris.
First I take the metro to La Defense for the huge market in the Parvis de La Defense. With the backdrop of the area’s iconic rectangular arch, this market features hundreds of chalets, an ice rink, Santa Claus and Mrs. Claus appearances, shops, restaurants, merry-go-rounds, and art installations.
I spend a while walking through the market, taking in the sights of the lights, the scents of raclette and tartiflette, and the sounds of music. It’s festive and fun, and I keep marveling at how big the place is.
From there I hop on the RER train and make the 35-minute trip to La Villette for the Noel La Villette Christmas market in the area’s big park. While not as enormous as its counterpart in La Defense, it’s still pretty sizeable.
I spend some time exploring, taking in everything from the chalets selling gifts to the circles of food stalls surrounding picnic tables. There’s a restaurant on one side and a big Ferris wheel at the back.
Dinner
After exploring the market, I take the metro to meet an expat friend for dinner at a restaurant called Le Languedoc. Located in the 5th arrondissement, this local place serves a great set dinner menu in a classic French dining room.
We tuck into a feast of green beans, oeufs mayonnaise, haddock, beef, and chocolate mousse as we catch up with one another and soak up the Parisian atmosphere.
Sunday
The next morning I head out for breakfast with the friends I’m staying with. We walk over to a restaurant called Le Do Re Mi in the 8th. This place has a great morning menu complete with croissants, omelets, tartines, and coffees.
We settle in for a breakfast feast, enjoying fresh bread, egg dishes, and all the French butter our arteries can handle. We wash it down with cafes au lait and fresh orange juice, and it sets us up well for the day.
Le Marais
After breakfast I head off to the Marais. This is one of my favorite quarters of Paris, not least because most of the shops and restaurants are open on Sundays.
I spend the late morning exploring the historic streets, shopping for tea at Mariage Freres and jewelry at Amaya, and walking through the stunning Place des Vosges.
Lunch
When I’m done exploring, I stroll around the bustling Bastille Market before hopping on the metro and heading to the 7th arrondissement for lunch at Le Recamier. Tucked away on a side street, this restaurant is famous for its souffles.
Without a reservation, I have to wait nearly an hour for a table. It’s worth it. My savory souffle of Mont d’Or cheese and truffle sauce is one of the best things I’ve eaten in a long time.
Christmas Shopping
After lunch it’s a short walk to Le Bon Marche. This famous department store goes all-out with its Christmas decorations, and I’m awed by the larger-than-life displays in the central atrium.
Equally festive are the chalets set up throughout the store. They make for a fun Christmas market atmosphere right in the heart of the grand magasin.
Christmas Market
Speaking of Christmas markets, after shopping I hop on the metro and head to the pint-size one at the Place des Abbesses in Montmartre. The small square is packed with vendors selling everything from crepes to gifts.
When I finish browsing the stalls, I walk up the hill to get to Place du Tertre. This famous square is lined with restaurants and filled with artists, and it’s all dressed up for Christmas.
I spend some time admiring the decorations on the restaurant facades before walking over to the Sacre Coeur and down the steps to the Carrousel de Saint-Pierre.
From there it’s a short walk to Rue des Martyrs, my favorite foodie street in Paris. This road is lined with bakeries, cafes, greengrocers, and restaurants. It’s a great place to shop, eat, and work up an appetite.
Dinner
I resist the temptation to indulge my taste buds, as I’m off to an early dinner. I pick up my bags from my friends’ place, say good-bye, and hop on the metro to meet another friend at Monsieur Maillot in the 17th.
Sitting in one of the restaurant’s many small dining rooms, we tuck into a delicious meal of fresh fish and beef bourguignon. There’s a warm atmosphere here, and it’s a great place to end my weekend.
Paris Christmas Weekend Trip
From the restaurant it’s a quick ride on the RER to get to Gare du Nord. I leave with a heavy heart and a head full of festive memories of my time in the City of Light. I hope my itinerary has made you want to come here during the Christmas season, too.
Map
As promised, I’ve created an interactive Google map of all the places I visited on my trip. You can find it here. I hope it helps you plan your own Christmas getaway to Paris!
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