Today I want to share my itinerary for Bray and the Cotswolds with you. These parts of the English countryside are rife with beautiful streets and bucolic scenery. From the famous restaurants in Bray to the ancient Roman highlights of Cirencester, there’s a lot to love about both places. My itinerary will show you how to visit them on a 2-day trip. I’ve included a map, too.
Bray and the Cotswolds
I’m visiting Bray and the Cotswolds with a friend. We’re going to spend part of our time in Bray and part of our time in and around Cirencester. We want to see the best of both places.
If you’re not familiar with them, I’ll give you a little background. Bray is a picture-pretty village in Berkshire that’s famous for having two 3-Michelin starred restaurants and a Michelin-starred pub. Oh, and loads of pretty streets.
Cirencester is one of the largest towns in the Cotswolds, not to mention one of the most beautiful towns near London. Founded in ancient Roman times, it’s often referred to as the Capital of the Cotswolds. Cirencester’s rich history lends the place a unique charm.
How to Get to Bray and Cirencester
Given it’s easier to get around Berkshire and Gloucestershire by driving than by public transport, we hop in my friend’s car and head west to Bray on the morning of our first day. We can’t wait to see what’s in store for us.
If you want to visit Bray and the Cotswolds without a car, you can take the train from London to Maidenhead (it’s easy on the Elizabeth Line). From there it’s a short bus or taxi ride to Bray.
Back on the train, you can continue west to Swindon or Kemble (you’ll need to change trains at least once en route). From either one you can take a bus to Cirencester.
It’s a long journey and you’ll need to plan ahead to get the timing right, but it’s doable. If you can go by car instead, I recommend it.
Bray
After an hour’s drive, we arrive in Bray just in time for lunch. It’s convenient, as a 16th-century pub called The Crown at Bray has invited me for a complimentary meal for two. We head inside, taking in the historic surroundings and heavy timber ceiling beams.
There’s a fire crackling in the fireplace, a convivial atmosphere, and a menu full of traditional English dishes. It feels like we’ve taken a delicious step back in time.
We order warming bowls of soup and plates of fish and chips, finishing it all off with a dark chocolate parfait. It’s the perfect start to our getaway.
After lunch we go outside to explore. Bray is one of the most beautiful villages near London, and it’s full of historic houses, pubs, and a river (the Thames, in fact). There’s a pretty church, too.
Bray is also home to the aforementioned Michelin stars. From The Fat Duck to The Waterside Inn and The Hind’s Head, Bray packs a punch when it comes to culinary might.
We take a walk, admiring the heritage buildings, churchyard, and culinary attractions before hopping in the car to continue our journey.
Ampney Crucis
After an hour and 15 minutes, we arrive in Ampney Crucis and check into our hotel, Wild Thyme & Honey. I’ve been offered a complimentary stay and dinner, and my friend and I arrive eager to see what awaits us.
Nestled just outside of Cirencester, Wild Thyme & Honey is a boutique bolthole housed in a reborn 16th-century pub. The hotel overlooks a trout-filled brook, and it all feels idyllic.
Our room has every amenity we could ask for, and the decor features exposed Cotswold stone, natural wood floors, woolly textures, and a window with views of the English countryside. The staff is friendly and welcoming, and there’s a great atmosphere.
Walk in the Cotswolds
We start our stay with a walk in the Cotswolds. The hotel has put together routes guests can follow, and there are wellies by the front door we can borrow.
We do a big loop around Ampney Crucis and the fields surrounding Wild Thyme & Honey. It’s a great way to get acquainted with the area and stretch our legs after a day of driving and eating.
We go over stiles and through gates, breathing the fresh country air and admiring the pastoral scenery. We walk until it gets dark, then head back to the hotel for pre-dinner drinks.
Drinks & Dinner
The lobby bar is buzzing when we arrive. We snag the last table, cozy up by the fireplace, and buy drinks. It’s a great way to kick off our evening.
When we reach the bottom of our glasses, we head into The Crown. It’s the restaurant that sits within Wild Thyme & Honey. The place offers farm-to-table cuisine that showcases produce and ingredients from across the British Isles.
We’re seated at a table upstairs, and we love the cozy atmosphere, exposed stone walls, and heavy wooden tables. Our server is friendly, and the roasts and puddings go down a treat.
Cirencester
The next morning we wake up and enjoy a big breakfast at Wild Thyme & Honey before driving into Cirencester to explore the town.
Charter Market
Our first stop is the Market Place, where we stop to browse the wares at the Charter Market. Taking place two days a week, its vendors sell everything from plants to furniture, food, wicker baskets, and household goods.
The Charter Market in Cirencester is one of the oldest of its kind in the UK. It was mentioned as early as 1086 in the Domesday Book.
As we walk through the rows of stalls, we take in a range of fun finds. Eventually my friend buys a ring from one of the traders and we move on.
Parish Church of St John Baptist
Looming over the Market Place is the Parish Church of St John Baptist. This famous landmark is one of the largest parish churches in England. Built of Cotswold stone, it’s been a place of worship for over a thousand years.
We admire the facade, taking in the details and marveling at the history. Dating back to the 12th century, St John Baptist was built on the site of an earlier Saxon church and there are layers of heritage here.
The church features everything from a stunning porch to beautiful fan vaults, merchants’ tombs, and a 15th-century tower. My inner history lover is smitten.
Streets & Shops
After visiting the church, we walk around the town. Ever since my first visit, I’ve loved Cirencester’s charming streets and historic houses.
We swoon over the colorful facades on Black Jack Street, not to mention the little alleys that radiate from it. There’s Cotswold stone everywhere, and the whole town feels like it’s straight out of a fairy tale.
We also admire Cecily Hill, which leads to the leafy expanse of Cirencester Park. This street is lined with picturesque homes and gardens.
Back by the Market Place, we wave hello to the Corn Hall, where there are regular indoor markets. From crafts to antiques and vintage treasures, they offer a range of goods for sale.
Bray and the Cotswolds
As we head back to the car, we lament not having time for other sightseeing highlights in town. The Corinium Museum focuses on the ancient Roman history and archaeology of the city.
New Brewery Arts connects people with all things hand-made and celebrates the role of craft and creativity in life. And Cirencester Park is one of my favorite places to walk in the area.
We hop in the car for the drive back to London, promising each other we’ll return to see everything we missed on a future trip. But in spite of our limited time, we’ve had a great experience visiting Bray and Cirencester.
Map of the Trip
As promised, I created an interactive Google map of all the places we went in Bray and the Cotswolds. You can find it here. I hope it helps you plan a fun trip of your own!
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