Lady’s Itinerary for 4 Days in Haute-Vienne, France

Today I want to bring you an advertising feature in partnership with Atout France for an itinerary for 4 days in Haute-Vienne. With Limoges at its heart, this department in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region is known for everything from fine porcelain to medieval chateaux. It flies under the radar from a tourism perspective, but it’s worth a visit if you want to discover what really matters in the heart of France.

4 Days in Haute-Vienne, France

After an amazing 3 days in Bordeaux, I pick up a rental car from the Europcar office at the Saint Jean train station and drive through the French countryside to get to Haute-Vienne.

Day 1 in Haute-Vienne: Rochechouart and Champagnac-la-Riviere

Two-and-a-half hours later, I arrive in Rochechouart in time for lunch at the Hotel de France restaurant. I sit at an outdoor table enjoying an inventive mushroom starter and a main course of fish as I soak up the sunshine.

After lunch I walk past a church with a unique twisted spire to get to the Chateau de Rochechouart. This stunning French castle dates back to the 13th century, but its facade and interiors are all Renaissance.

It’s served many purposes over the centuries, and today it houses the Haute-Vienne Museum of Contemporary Art.

I spend the afternoon touring the museum. It’s packed with everything from Renaissance frescoes to rotating exhibitions of contemporary painting and sculpture. The interplay of old and new makes for a truly special setting.

From Rochechouart, my time in Haute-Vienne continues with a 20-minute drive to my accommodation, La Gare aux Oiseaux in Champagnac-la-Riviere.

This unique B&B is housed in an old train station, and I love that some of the original features have been retained.

Outside, the former railway line has been turned into a walking and cycling path. I spend the early evening walking under the tree canopy and enjoying the quiet of the countryside.

Later I have dinner at the restaurant right next to the hotel. Aptly named La Gare (“The Station”), it transports me back to the golden age of travel as the chef prepares a meal consisting of everything from gnocchi to opera cake. It’s delicious.

Day 2 in Haute-Vienne: Richard the Lionheart Route and Limoges

The next morning I’m up early and off to visit some of the castles on the Richard the Lionheart Route. Haute-Vienne is littered with medieval chateaux, many of which the famous English king stayed at during his time in France in the 12th century.

My first stop is the Chateau de Chalus-Chabrol, where Richard the Lionheart was mortally wounded in 1199. With a round tower and medieval rooms to explore, it’s a great introduction to the area’s cultural heritage.

I climb to the top of the tower, taking in the views across the countryside and imagining what it would have been like here in the days of the Viscounts of Limoges.

From the Chateau de Chalus-Chabrol, I drive to L’Instant Gourmand for a lunch of tomato salad and the fish of the day. It sets me up for the next stop on my Haute-Vienne itinerary: the Musee et Jardins Cecile Sabourdy.

This unique museum in Vicq-sur-Breuilh is housed in a 17th-century presbytery. Dedicated to overlooked amateur and experimental art, the interior and surrounding gardens are great places to discover less-known artists in peaceful surroundings.

From Vicq-sur-Breuilh, I drive to Limoges and check into my aparthotel, La Maison Blanche. Located on a pretty street in the city center, it features spacious rooms and breakfast delivered to my door each morning.

I get settled in, then explore the city while walking to dinner at Mamie Bigoude. This quirky restaurant specializes in crepes. The interior features bright green and pink decor, and being here feels like indulging my inner child in her most colorful dreams.

Day 3 in Haute-Vienne: Limoges

The following morning my Haute-Vienne itinerary continues with a tour of the Adrien Dubouche Museum. Given the city is synonymous with ceramics, it’s fitting to start my day at a place that houses the world’s largest collection of Limoges porcelain.

I take a tour, learning all about how porcelain is made and seeing examples of ceramics dating from ancient times to the present day.

I even get a sneak peak at the wood-paneled library, which makes the book lover in me swoon. But the real highlight is the top floor, where the finest examples of Limoges porcelain wow me with their purity and intricate details.

After the tour I walk to lunch at Ginette, a stylish restaurant with a great selection of local wines and dishes adorned with flower petals. My favorite part of the meal is dessert, which comes in the form of a peanut choux au craquelin with ice cream and Chantilly.

After lunch I take a walking tour of Limoges with a local tour guide. He takes me everywhere from the Vienne River to the cathedral, the eye-catching train station, and the historic Abbessaille and Boucherie districts.

The last of these is packed with narrow streets lined by charming medieval buildings and tiny chapels. It’s my favorite part of the city.

We also walk through Les Halles Centrales, a contemporary indoor market packed with delicious-looking food and produce.

From Les Halles Centrales it’s not far to the main shopping streets, which have narrow passageways leading to courtyards with hidden heritage facades. Stunning churches and local markets round out the scene.

It all serves to make me wonder why Limoges isn’t more firmly on people’s travel radars. It’s well worth a trip.

After all the sightseeing, I’m ready for another meal. I head over to Le Versailles, a classic restaurant in Limoges where I tuck into scallops with mushrooms and pasta for dinner.

Day 4 in Haute-Vienne: Limoges and Saint-Junien

The next morning I head off to tour another of the city’s porcelain highlights: Le Four des Casseaux. This heritage site features a giant 19th-century kiln where Limoges’ most famous export was once fired.

There are exhibits and photographs documenting the industrial heritage of Limoges porcelain, and several exhibitions featuring contemporary ceramics. There’s an on-site shop selling all kinds of porcelain to take home, too.

From Le Four des Casseaux I head to lunch at La Souris Verte, a little restaurant with lots of great vegetarian options. I go with the risotto, which is a delicious way to end my time in the city.

Leaving Limoges, I drive to the final stop on my Haute-Vienne itinerary: the Agnelle glove factory in Saint-Junien.

Set in an unassuming building on Avenue de la Republique, this company manufactures hand-made gloves for everyone from Dior to Balenciaga and Ralph Lauren.

I go from the cutting floor to the stitching room as I learn about the glove-making process and watch the masters at work. At the end I meet two women putting the finishing touches on Burberry gloves and admire the glove selection in the factory shop.

Leaving Agnelle, I hop on the road for the 3-hour drive to Bordeaux airport. I return the car there and board a direct flight back to London.

It’s been a great trip, and I’ve enjoyed getting to know what really matters in Bordeaux, Haute-Vienne, and the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region. I hope you can do the same someday soon.

This is an advertising feature with Atout France and the Nouvelle-Aquitaine Tourism Board. You can learn more about Nouvelle-Aquitaine at https://www.nouvelle-aquitaine-tourisme.com/en.

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