The Maldives are synonymous with paradise. Island atolls with sparkling white sand dot the aquamarine water of the Indian Ocean like so many crowns, many of them filled with the jewels of over-water bungalows and luxurious resorts. But this isn’t just a five-star playground for travelers; it’s also a place where locals call the islands home. One of them is a friend of mine in London, and she’s brought me to her country to show me two sides of the Maldives: local and luxurious.

Living in the Maldives

Living Like a Local in the Maldives

On my first trip to the Maldives, I landed at the airport in Male and immediately boarded a seaplane to my resort. I didn’t see any of the local activity in the country, and always wondered what it was actually like to live here.

Now that I’m back with my friend, I’m excited to see what life is like when you live in paradise.

Male, Maldives

Male, Maldives

When we land at the airport, we skip the seaplanes and board a quick local ferry to Male instead. The capital of the Maldives, Male is where the majority of the country’s population lives.

Boats in the Maldives

When we arrive, the density of the urban setting is a stark contrast to my desert island experience at the resort on my last trip.

The impossibly narrow streets of Male are packed with pedestrians, motorbikes, and bustling fish and produce markets. It’s mango season and there’s yellow everywhere.

Old Presidential Palace in the Maldives

My friend graciously takes me on a tour of Male, showing me the city’s many mosques and the National Museum of the Maldives, which has historic objects and memorabilia.

She brings me to the Islamic Center, one of the most important landmarks in the city, and to the beautiful cemetery where notables were once buried.

Cemetery in Male, Maldives

She also takes me along the coast, where there’s a small man-made beach that echoes those on the resort islands, as well as a surfing point and plenty of jetties filled with colorful fishing boats.

When we need a rest, we meet with her friends and family at some of the city’s great rooftop cafes. Salt offers views over the water, and Citron’s tables line the ocean.

Citron Restaurant in Male, Maldives

But the real treat is staying with my friend in Male. She and her family are incredibly generous and welcoming.

Her mother’s home cooking is so good that I want to overstay my visit; spicy curries and delicious fish dishes grace the table at every meal.

It’s hard to find food like this in restaurants or resorts in the Maldives, and it’s one of the highlights of experiencing the local side of the country.

Ferry in the Maldives

Hulhumale and Vilingili

Another is seeing the other islands that comprise greater Male. The city’s urban density has caused many locals to move to islands like Hulhumale and Vilingili, two smaller islands that are both a short ferry ride from Male.

Houses on Vilingili, Maldives

I explore these islands during my trip to the Maldives, soaking up the sun on the beach in Hulhumale and exploring the colorful houses in Vilingili.

House on Vilingili, Maldives

Hulhumale’s beachfront is lined with a new crop of guesthouses that offer a less expensive alternative to the five-star resorts in the Maldives.

For travelers that want a more local experience (and don’t mind the lack of alcohol and no-bikini rules on the beaches), it’s a great place to stay.

Beach on Hulhumale, Maldives

Living in Luxury in the Maldives

But speaking of the five-star resorts, I can’t take a trip to the Maldives without experiencing some of the best luxury travel in Asia.

My friend sets us up with a two-night stay compliments of Coco Bodu Hithi, a gorgeous property on an island 40 minutes by boat from Male.

Coco Bodu Hithi, Maldives

We stay at the Coco Residences, a set of spacious over-water bungalows that come complete with plunge pools and private butler service.

Coco Bodu Hithi, Maldives

For two days we lounge in luxury by the ocean, enjoying the freedom to relax and revel in the paradise around us.

Coco Bodu Hithi, Maldives

I go snorkeling off the beach, get an amazing massage at the award-winning spa, and try out almost all of the restaurants at the resort, from barbecues to fine dining.

The snorkeling doesn’t reveal as much sea life as it did on my last trip to the Maldives, but overall I have a great experience.

Coco Bodu Hithi, Maldives

Living in the Maldives

So which was better, the local experience or the luxurious one? I can’t say. Both were so distinct that it’s impossible to compare the two.

Island in the Maldives

I’ll never turn down a luxurious resort in paradise, but getting a local stay in the Maldives—from amazing food to welcoming friends and family—was a travel experience that most visitors never get the opportunity to have.

The combination was the perfect way discover the paradise that is the Maldives, and I feel incredibly grateful to have had it.

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Living in the Maldives

34 Comments on Lady’s Guide to Living Local and Luxurious in the Maldives

  1. Wow really amazing! I would say having both experiences is the best choice so you can appreciate the beauty of both. It feels like paradise indeed

  2. Absolutely incredible! I love this post for its insightful contrast! I loved the luxury resort aspect of the Maldives but I can’t deny that I did feel a real curiosity wondering what local life there is really like and I’d love to see that side of it one day and the colourful houses Look gorgeous not to mention all those lovely local curries and fresh fish!

  3. I love the insight to a side of the Maldives you so rarely see! Luxury is obviously lovely and relaxing but it’s so exhilarating to see a different side.

  4. Wow – this looks absolutely divine! I totally agree with you – it’s so important to see both sides of a country when you visit – you were very lucky to have a friend with family there! It’s an opportunity most of us will probably never have.

    Lauren xx

  5. Wow this looks beautiful! The Maldives is one of those places I’ve always wanted to visit but never really knew much about where was best to go. It’s great that you got to see the ‘real’ place too! 🙂

  6. WHAT a trip! So glad you got to see both sides… I’ll admit the Maldives is one of those places on the planet that I’m not sure my senses would be able to handle. It just looks too beautiful to be real. But this post sure makes me want to make sure I check for myself sometime 😉

  7. Looks awesome, I’m heading out for our honeymoon in a few months, cannot wait. Anyone we’ve spoken to has advised not to spend too much time in Male but it looks sweet, so we’ll be ignoring them 🙂

  8. I think local and luxurius is the best way of travelling. Of course you want to know the real destination, not the postcard perfect landscapes. But at the same time: who doesn’t want to enjoy a couple of days in paradise with all the luxury you can afford? I think perfection is in the middle!
    xx,
    E.

  9. I’ve been keeping up with your Twitter photos of the Maldives, Julie – sounds like an amazing trip and how nice that you combined a home stay with your friend’s family with a trip to Coco Residences. Did you see any unusual fish when you snorkelled?

    Suze

  10. Thank you for sharing this amazing glimpse into local life in paradise. I’ve often wondered what it would be like call a remote tourist destination home — such contrast to the resort image the rest of us have.

  11. WOW! You really did get to see the best of both worlds, I loved reading this and am beyond excited to head to the Maldives next year!! x
    Simone

  12. Fascinating! I’ve always wondered what life is like for the locals there. I’ve only ever seen photos of the resorts, which do look fabulous. If I ever make it to the Maldives, I want to experience both sides just like this!

  13. So interesting to see the local side Julie. I’m longing to visit the Maldives for my honeymoon but the groom is worried he will get bored! Maybe if we do a trip that is half luxury and half local he will be more interested!

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