There are so many things to do in Durham that it’s hard to know where to start when writing about the city. But I’ve set myself that challenge today after a great trip, and I hope I can do Durham justice.
Trip to Durham, England
Anyone that’s taken a train up the east coast of England knows that when you get to Durham, something amazing happens. Out of the corner of your eye, you see a shape in the distance that catches your attention.
You look out the window at a hulking stone mass on the horizon, then you do a double take. Because Durham Cathedral is one of the most amazing sights you’ve ever seen.
I’ve wanted to visit Durham, the famous cathedral city in the north of England, ever since I first saw the church out the window of a train while traveling to Edinburgh.
Countless years later, I’ve peered at it out the windows of trains so many times I can hardly believe I’m actually going to see it up close.
Things to Do in Durham
But I’m finally traveling to Durham, with its historic castle and cathedral on a hilltop peninsula carved out by the River Wear.
After the three-hour train ride from London—which takes me past innumerable pastures filled with the cutest lambs I’ve ever seen—I do my double take and alight ready to explore. I’m here as a guest of the tourism board, and I’m looking forward to discovering the city.
Visit Durham Cathedral
Naturally, my first stop is the cathedral. Seeing it is one of the most important things to do in Durham, and I couldn’t travel here without visiting.
I head up the winding hill, which reminds me a lot of the one leading up to Edinburgh Castle, with its tiny alleys offering steep shortcuts to the top.
When I arrive, I walk through a pretty market square and a historic cobbled street to get to Durham Cathedral.
It’s a foggy day, which lends the air a haunted feeling, and that seems appropriate given the centuries of history surrounding it.
Durham Cathedral dates back to 1093, and is one of the finest examples of Norman architecture in the world. As a lover of architectural history, I’m awed by the place.
The interior is stunning with its beautiful Romanesque arches and stained glass, and the sounds of the choir—which is practicing for Sunday’s service during my visit—echo off the stone walls, giving the place a welcome warmth.
Tour Durham Castle
Back outside, I cross the large square and make my way to Durham Castle, which together with Durham Cathedral forms a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Seeing the castle is another of the top things to do in Durham, and I can’t wait to explore it. An hour-long tour takes me through the grounds and interior and gives me background on the castle’s history.
I learn that the building was originally commissioned by William the Conqueror in the 11th century for the Earls of Northumberland. In reality, it was used by the prince bishops of Durham.
Today the castle is part of Durham University. It makes me wish I’d gone to a university with a castle on campus.
During the tour of Durham Castle, I explore grand rooms like the Great Hall, which was once the largest of its kind in Britain.
I also see Tunstall’s Chapel, which has beautiful engraved wooden misericords dating back to the 16th century.
Explore the Side Streets
Back outside, I wander down North and South Bailey, streets lined on both sides by colleges from Durham University. Given my love of side streets, exploring them is one of my favorite things to do in Durham.
They’re impossibly picturesque with all their historic buildings, cobblestones, and secret gardens full of flowers and sculptures.
But perhaps the prettiest part comes at the end, when I pass under a stone arch and find myself in some kind of magical wilderness.
Through the fog, naked tree branches hide an old bridge, and all around me the land looks like a forest. It’s hard to believe I’m still in a city.
Eat at the Cafes and Restaurants
But I am, and it has a lot to offer. Over on Elvet Bridge, I find great little tearooms like Tealicious and coffee shops like Flat White, which is tucked away off the main street in a pretty brick courtyard.
For dinner I head to a farm-to-table British restaurant on Claypath where I have a breaded Sedgefield camembert salad with sweet chili chutney and a delicious chicken and mushroom pie.
Stay in Durham
I sleep off my food coma at the Victorian Town House, my B&B in Durham. It’s a beautiful place, and my room is so modern that I wonder if it was renovated yesterday.
Andy, one of the owners, is welcoming and friendly, and cooks me a great breakfast in the morning before I leave.
What to Do in Durham
The B&B is a quick walk from the railway station, and I hike back up the hill to catch my train to London. As it pulls out of the station, I’m once again afforded a great view of Durham Cathedral.
And even though I’ve now seen it up close and on the inside, I do a double take. It’s just that amazing. Seeing it is still one of the best things to do in Durham.
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27 Comments on Lady’s Guide to Things to Do in Durham
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So glad you enjoyed your visit to Durham and fulfilling your long ambition. Happy that it lived up to expectations even in the damp greyness we do well here in the North East. We hope you come back soon. Michael Sadgrove, Dean at the Cathedral.
Thanks Michael! I loved Durham and hope to return again soon!
This looks idyllic! All I want to do is pack an overnight bag and head there now! The town looks so quaint and peaceful. Lovely post, pinning for a quiet weekend!!! xx
Yeah, it is such a beautiful city!
So pleased you enjoyed Durham. Even though I have lived in County Durham most of my 60+ years I still feel a thrill when I see Durham Cathedral. The building, the tranquility in fact everything about it is breathtaking. The City is definitely worth visiting and the whole County has so much to see.
Thanks Anne! You live in a beautiful part of the world. I would love to go back again and visit more of the county!
I wonder if you saw the 14thC reredos in the Cathedral? As a keen observer of the English language (esp as it is spoken/written in the UK), I find the word “reredos” about as curious as any I have ever run across. I immediately adopted it and of course, mispronounced it as “re-re-do’s”, meaning I not only get one chance, but two “to get it right”…,
Etymological meanderings (like the river Wear): Durham is the name of this famous English World Heritage site and it is the name of the wheat used in the making of couscous, altho in the case of the foodstuff the spelling maybe durum (wheat).
Haha, nice 🙂
Ahh Durham is my hometown 🙂 I grew up there but don’t live there anymore. Since leaving, I’ve done that clichéd thing of only appreciating it once I can no longer see the beauty every day. I love that feeling of pulling in to the station and seeing the view of the city, topped by the cathedral. I similarly get excited, but for me, its also a feeling that I’ve arrived home.
A little bit of trivia for you: you mentioned the fog during your visit, well there’s a bit of a legend amongst locals that during WW2, fog rose up around the cathedral to hide it from view when a bomber plane flew overhead. Spooky!
I’m glad you enjoyed this part of England and thank you for writing about it. I love reading about your adventures in other parts of the world, but sometimes its just as nice to read a lovely review about a place I’m so fond of.
Anna
Thanks Anna! That’s a great story about the fog during the war. You’re from a beautiful part of the country!
That cathedral, Julie! My gosh – it looks so beautiful 🙂 I’ll definitely need to make a trip to Durham at some point of my UK stay.
It looks like there’s so much to do in this town, and I could see myself quite happily filling up a weekend there.
Thanks for the inspiration – as always! x
Thanks! I hope you’re able to get up there sometime. It’s such a great place to visit!
I am very happy that you have shared your experience as even I like to do that. It feels awesome when somebody listen to what we want to express. The places you visited are really beautiful and peaceful. Do visit other places and keep updating as I am eagerly waiting for your next post..!!
Thanks!
Lovely images – it looks lovely 🙂
Thanks Lucy!
Wow, Julie, that was a great day to visit Durham! That fog gave it a very mysterious, haunted feel, as you rightly pointed out. Visiting the city has been on the back of my mind for a while, but maybe it’s high time I went there and explored it…
Yeah, you should definitely move it up the list!
awwwww I’ve been living there 300 days (who would have guessed 😛 ) and i know that view and it’s really amazing everyday
That’s great! Such an amazing view!
Thank you for a lovely read ,I’m from the city myself and its nice to see other people appreciating it .You have done Durham City proud and beautiful photo’s too.
Thanks, Paul!
wow, this article is so interesting to read, thank you for sharing this, and the picture is really nice.
I’m glad you think so!
My great grandfather, William Harper, came from here. He emigrated to Saskatchewan, a province of Canada, with his new wife whom he’d met on his grand tour of Europe. I really enjoyed experiencing this city through your eyes, thanks kindly for sharing.
You’re welcome! I’m glad you enjoyed it.