Cheltenham Travel Guide

Today I want to share my Cheltenham travel guide with you. Cheltenham is all about pleasure. Originally a spa town where wealthy Brits would spend the summer season taking the waters, going to balls, and betting at the races, this place came into its own during the Regency period in the early 19th century.

And while the Prince Regent—famous for his flamboyant displays of opulence at places like the Brighton Pavilion—is no longer around, Cheltenham still is. And it is still a pleasurable place. Hence my Cheltenham travel guide.

Train to Cheltenham from London

I traveled out to Cheltenham on Friday to indulge in a bit of hedonism, as is only fitting for such a place.

Starting at London Paddington, I traveled first class on the train to Cheltenham Spa station. It was a great way to get from the UK capital to the Cotswolds.

After three hours in a comfortable seat with great views of the English countryside and Gloucestershire, I arrived in the town, where a car from my accommodation was waiting for me.

Hotel in Cheltenham

A few minutes later, I arrived at the Malmaison Cheltenham, which had offered me a night’s stay so I could write my Cheltenham travel guide.

Set in a historic building on a beautiful residential street, the hotel was contemporary, relaxed, and welcoming.

My room was enormous, with a large bed, a beautiful bathtub, a long desk, a wardrobe, and a TV.

The bathroom was all done in black, which made it a bit hard to see in the mirror, but the REN cosmetics took good enough care of my skin that I didn’t have to worry too much about my complexion.

Downstairs the hotel had a series of comfy lounge spaces, a bar, and a beautiful glass conservatory for afternoon tea. There was also a restaurant and—this being Cheltenham—a spa.

Things to Do in Cheltenham

Once I settled into my room, I set off to discover all the lovely things to do in Cheltenham. First I explored the town’s abundant shopping offerings.

Around the corner from my hotel, Montpellier Street had great boutiques like La De Da!, Neal’s Yard, and Boutique 3.

From antiques to gifts and clothing, there was no shortage of things to tempt me into retail sin.

Nearby was Montpellier Walk, a colonnaded street with beautiful neoclassical sculptures between its shops, bars, and restaurants.

Down the road was the Promenade, which had boutiques like Vinegar Hill as well as high street shops, all of which were housed in historic Regency buildings.

Further down was the high street, which had all of the usual shops and restaurants. Off it branched Regent Street, where I found the famous Everyman Theatre.

Restaurants in Cheltenham

It was also there that I began the next phase of research for my Cheltenham travel guide: food.

On Regent Street I stumbled upon The CheeseWorks, a great little cheese shop and deli. The staff was incredibly friendly, and made me a little cheese-and-salami sandwich that I could take to the park.

That park happened to be the Imperial Gardens, a former spa garden that was planted with beautiful purple and red flowers and surrounded by Regency-style buildings with elegant ironwork.

The weather was unseasonably warm, so I spent the afternoon indulging my appetite and reading the sequel to Wolf Hall.

I cannot remember the last time I spent several hours sitting in a sunny park doing two of my favorite things. It was so luxurious that I almost felt guilty.

Back at the Malmaison Cheltenham, the decadence continued with a bubble bath and a leisurely dinner at the restaurant. I dined my way through Jerusalem artichoke soup, classic coq au vin, and a creative popcorn sundae.

At the end I couldn’t resist indulging in a glass of Fonseca 10 Year Tawny Port in a nostalgic nod to my trip to Portugal’s Douro Valley in July.

As if that wasn’t hedonism enough for one day, a friend of mine traveled out from London later that evening, bringing with her a bottle of champagne that we put to good use by toasting to her birthday at midnight.

The next morning we enjoyed a big breakfast at the hotel. From full-fat yogurt in glass jars to fresh croissants, eggs Benedict, and smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, we had quite a feast.

Guided Tour

Afterwards I continued my Cheltenham travel guide research on a tour of Regency Cheltenham that the tourism board offered me.

The weekly tour, which takes place every Saturday in the warmer months, gave an overview of the town’s early 19th-century history and architecture.

Our guide, Mary, took us through parks and squares, down historic streets, and inside several buildings, including a stunning decommissioned church that was converted into a restaurant. Sacrilicious.

Along the way, Mary explained that Cheltenham’s historic heyday ended when the Napoleonic wars came to an end and people seeking pleasure started traveling in Europe again.