Things to Do in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Villefranche-sur-Mer is a pleasant surprise. This French Riviera town is right next to Nice, but flies under the radar. I’ve been to the Cote d’Azur countless times, but have never heard anyone talk about this place. I’m finally here because I’ve been everywhere else, and I can’t believe I’ve missed out on it all these years. If you want to discover it, today I bring you A Lady in London’s guide to things to do in Villefranche-sur-Mer.

Villefranche-sur-Mer

A stone’s throw from Nice, Villefranche-sur-Mer is a picturesque seaside village tucked into a bay between the Cap Ferrat peninsula and the Cap de Nice.

Its colorful old town cascades down a hill, culminating in a waterfront lined with restaurants looking out on traditional pointu boats dotted across the water.

Historically, Villefranche-sur-Mer was more sleepy fishing village than jet set destination, but it’s attracted its share of glamor over the years.

Artist Jean Cocteau called it “a source of myth and inspiration” and the Rolling Stones recorded their Exile on Mainstreet album here.

It’s a popular filming location, too. Villefranche-sur-Mer has featured in everything from Alfred Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief to Dirty Rotten Scoundrels.

The village is also a great day trip from Nice. It’s fun to spend a day exploring the old town, citadel, and beaches. You can combine a trip with a visit to neighboring Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and Beaulieu-sur-Mer, too.

How to Get to Villefranche-sur-Mer

It’s easy to get to Villefranche-sur-Mer. The train line that runs between Nice and Ventimiglia has a stop here, and the station is a quick walk from the old town.

There are also buses that serve the village, and if you’re feeling ambitious you can even walk here from Nice.

A shorter walk, bus, or train ride will bring you to Beaulieu-sur-Mer, and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is also a close stroll or bus trip away.

Where to Stay in Villefranche-sur-Mer

When you get here, you’ll find so many things to do in Villefranche-sur-Mer that you’ll probably be tempted to stay. Which is good, because there are some excellent accommodation options and hotels in Villefranche-sur-Mer.

If you’re looking for a hotel, the Welcome Hotel is a great choice. Located right on the waterfront below the old town, the location can’t be beat. With classic decor and sea views, this hotel has a lot going for it.

If you want an apartment, Le Vogue is just the thing. Situated in the heart of the old town, this lovely place will let you live like a local in Villefranche-sur-Mer.

Once settled, you’ll discover a range of things to do in Villefranche-sur-Mer. There are beaches for sun worshipers, an old town for explorers, a citadel for culture vultures, and artistic gems tucked away for adventurers.

There are also festivals and events on throughout the year. From a flower battle in the winter to an open-air theater in the summer, there’s a lot going on here.

Old Town in Villefranche-sur-Mer

I’ll start with the old town since it’s what surprised me most and made me fall in love with Villefranche-sur-Mer.

Many of the buildings here date back to the 12th and 13th centuries, and there’s a real feeling of history among the narrow streets and stairways.

As with a lot of places on the French Riviera, they’re painted in pinks, reds, oranges, and yellows, and have shutters in complimentary colors.

One of my favorite things to do in Villefranche-sur-Mer is get lost in the streets and take in all the little details along the way. On this trip I spend ages wandering up the stairways and photographing the beautiful hues.

Many of the families in the old town have lived here for generations, so it’s nice to see the neighborly interactions taking place around the streets, too.

For the curious and bold, a highlight of the old town is Rue Obscure, or Dark Street. This passageway under the old town’s houses dates back to the 13th century. Its steep tunnel is hauntingly atmospheric.

Churches in Villefranche-sur-Mer

On the more cheerful end of the spectrum, the Eglise Saint-Michel church was built in the 1750s in the Italian Baroque style.

It’s home to a large painting of Saint Michael above the marble altar and an organ built by the Grinda Brothers in 1790. It’s one of the oldest operational organs in the area.

Even more exciting is the surprise inside the waterfront Chapelle Saint-Pierre. This 16th-century chapel was used as a storage space by local fishermen for most of the 19th century and the first part of the 20th century.

Jean Cocteau took an interest in it when he moved to Villefranche-sur-Mer. It was restored in the 1950s with the addition of murals he painted depicting the life of Saint Peter and local fishermen.

The murals are now famous, and visitors come from all over the world to see them.

Citadel in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Another of the best things to do in Villefranche-sur-Mer is visit the Citadelle Saint-Elme.

Built in the 16th century by the Duke of Savoy, this hulking citadel is now home to the Town Hall, a convention center, a garden, museums, and an outdoor theater.

The museums include the Volti Museum, which houses voluptuous bronze sculptures by artist Antoniucci Volti in a cave-like venue with stone walls.

There’s also the Goetz-Boumeester Museum, which has works by artists like Picasso, Miro, Picabia, and Hartung.

In the summer, an open-air theater in the citadel is just the place to spend an evening on the French Riviera.

Port de la Darse in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Beyond the citadel, visiting the old Port de la Darse harbor is one of the top things to do in Villefranche-sur-Mer. You can get there via the path along the waterfront at the base of the citadel.

Dating back to the 17th century when it was built for the galleys of the Duke of Savoy, you’ll find lots of pretty boats moored here.

Beaches in Villefranche-sur-Mer

You’ll also find a beach. Just south of Port de la Darse is the Plage de la Darse. This little pebble beach is a nice place for sunbathing on warm days.

Back by the train station, the Plage des Marinieres is the main beach in Villefranche-sur-Mer. It stretches for nearly half a mile and has great views of the old town across the bay.

Festivals in Villefranche-sur-Mer

If you happen to be in town in the winter, one of the most exciting things to do in Villefranche-sur-Mer is attend the Bataille des Fleurs.

Every February this festival takes over the village as local fishermen celebrate Carnival with a battle of flowers.

The fishermen decorate their boats and throw flowers at one another and the spectators. There’s also a parade, music, and lots of costumes to see.