Ah, the French Riviera. With its glamorous reputation, sunshine, and coastline, it’s hard to beat this part of France. Given Nice is at the heart of it, no trip would be complete without a visit. I’m here now and the prettiest part of Nice is the old town. If you want to get to know this place, today I bring you A Lady in London’s guide to Vieux Nice.
Nice, France
The fifth largest city in France, Nice is a bustling hub on the Cote d’Azur. Despite its size, it maintains a charm only a French city can.
And that charm is felt most strongly in Vieux Nice. This historic part of the city is known for its narrow streets, colorful buildings, little shops, and pretty squares.
I lived and studied in Nice when I was 18, and I spent a lot of time in the old town. From the markets to the cafes, I fell in love with the area. I’ve been coming back ever since, and I hope I can convince you to visit, too.
How to Get to Vieux Nice
It’s easy to get to Vieux Nice. The area is centrally located right on the waterfront. It sits next to Place Massena, the main square in the city.
While the old town itself is mostly pedestrianized, there are trams and buses that run around its perimeter.
Vieux Nice is also in walking distance of the Promenade des Anglais, Avenue Jean Medecin, and other main streets, squares, and landmarks.
Where to Stay in Vieux Nice
There are a lot of great places to stay in Vieux Nice, too. My top pick for a hotel is the Palais Saleya Boutique Hotel.
Situated in an 18th-century building in the heart of the old town, it’s in a great location for exploring the area. The rooms are stylish and the hotel has apartments if you want more space.
Vieux Nice
Once in Vieux Nice, there’s a lot to see and do. From food to shopping, markets to streets, this area has an abundance of things to discover.
Streets to Explore
My favorite thing about Nice’s old town is walking through the streets. These narrow beauties are lined with buildings in all the French Riviera colors.
Yellows, oranges, and pinks dominate the palette, and shutters in every shade of turquoise accent the facades. Some are even painted with trompe l’oeil optical illusions, so it’s worth looking closely at the details.
There’s no one street that’s better than the others, and it’s worth getting lost to experience Vieux Nice fully. The area is small enough to explore in a couple hours, so you can’t get too lost even if you try.
If you start on bigger streets like Rue Alexandre Mari, make sure you also explore smaller ones like Rue Benoit Bunico. It will give you a good feel for the variety the old town has to offer.
Food in the Old Town
And speaking of variety, there are a lot of different foods to try in this part of the city. From traditional street food to seafood, the cafes and restaurants in Vieux Nice have it all.
Walking down the street will bring you in contact with vendors selling everything from sizzling hot sandwiches to decadent ice cream.
Socca in Vieux Nice
My favorite thing to eat in Vieux Nice is socca. This thin chickpea pancake originated in Genoa and spread in popularity along the Mediterranean coast.
Nice used to be part of Italy, so socca naturally made its way here. It’s cooked in huge metal pans and broken into pieces to be served on plates as a street food snack.
I enjoy socca from Chez Rene Socca on this trip. I order it from the outdoor counter and sit at one of the tables to eat my fill and watch the world go by.
Ice Cream in Vieux Nice
Another thing I can’t go to Vieux Nice without eating is ice cream. The city’s most famous ice cream shop is in Place Rossetti, a beautiful square lined with cathedrals and cafes.
Fenocchio is an institution in Nice, and I come here whenever I’m in town. In addition to having delicious ice cream and sorbet, it also offers unusual flavors.
On this visit I spot avocado, thyme, tomato and basil, and cactus. I opt for lavender since I’m in Provence, and it’s every bit as delicious as I remember.
Restaurants in Vieux Nice
As far as restaurants in Vieux Nice, there are a lot to choose from. Some serve traditional Nicoise cuisine, others international, and still more vegan.
Restaurants like Peixes from serial restaurateur Armand Crespo serve seafood in a modern setting. He also runs Le Bistrot d’Antoine and Le Bar des Oiseaux, which are great choices if you want classic French cuisine.
For something different, Koko Green offers vegan and raw food in a pint-size dining room.
Nightlife in Vieux Nice
Beyond food, there’s great nightlife in the area. The bars in Vieux Nice were my favorite places to go out when I studied here, and there are a lot of great spots to spend an evening in this part of the city.
Wayne’s Bar was a go-to, and it’s still going strong. This Anglo watering hole with retro decor is always fun for a drink. Additionally, Les Distilleries Ideales has great atmosphere and a balcony for taking in the scene below.
Shopping in Vieux Nice
Vieux Nice also has great shopping. From souvenirs to wine, art to food, there’s a lot on offer in this part of the city.
Some of my favorite streets for shopping in Vieux Nice are Rue Benoit Bunico and Rue Alexandre Mari.
While both have their share of touristy boutiques, they also have great independent shops selling everything from art to clothing and home goods.
As far as individual shops go, I’ve loved Lou Pantai on Rue de la Poissonnerie since I lived in Nice. This shop sells all the fragrant Provencal soaps and salts one could want, and the colors and scents win me over every time.
Markets in Vieux Nice
Some of the best shopping in Vieux Nice is at the markets. This part of the city has great street markets, and it’s worth timing a visit to coincide with when they’re on.
I love the market on Cours Saleya. This huge street market features stalls with striped awnings selling flowers and produce on most days.
The Marche aux Fleurs is famous throughout Provence, and is worth seeing for its bright colors and beautiful blooms.
On Mondays an antiques market takes over Cours Saleya. The whole square fills with secondhand goods, and it’s a fun place to browse.
There’s also a Saturday book market in the Place du Palais de Justice. I love looking through all the tables of antique books, original works, and rare editions when I’m here.
Parc de la Colline du Chateau
Sitting above Vieux Nice, the Parc de la Colline du Chateau overlooks the old town. It’s fun to walk up the stairs from the streets in the east of Vieux Nice to get to the top.
There was once a castle here, but today the highlights are the spectacular waterfall and the views over the Mediterranean Sea. It’s worth the leg stretch to see them.
Vieux Nice
I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide to Vieux Nice. Nice often gets overlooked in favor of other parts of the French Riviera, but it’s worth a visit to see this part of the city. Once you do, I hope you’ll be tempted to stay and see more.
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