Lady’s Guide to Where to Stay in Courchevel

Today I want to bring you my guide to where to stay in Courchevel. The French Alps are amazing for skiing, and this place is one of the best winter travel destinations in Europe.

Courchevel

I haven’t skied in nine years. In fact, I’ve only skied in California. But the French Alps are some of the best places to ski around the world, and now that I’m in Courchevel I finally have my chance.

The only problem is that I’m afraid I won’t remember how. Is it possible to forget how to ski? Or is it like riding a bike, where you never actually forget? I’ll find out soon enough.

Where to Stay in Courchevel

After a flight from London to Geneva and a scenic two-and-a-half hour drive from Geneva Airport, I arrive at Le Portetta.

It’s my hotel in laid-back Courchevel Moriond (also known as Courchevel 1650), one of the four main villages that make up the resort.

The hotel has invited me to Courchevel for three nights to experience the skiing and culture in France’s famous 3 Valleys.

Together with Val Thorens and Meribel, Courchevel offers the largest ski area in the world. If there’s anywhere I can remember how to ski, it’s here.

Le Portetta, Courchevel

And doing so is surprisingly simple from Le Portetta, which has its own ski rental facilities and is conveniently located right next to a lift and a gondola. It’s my first time staying in a ski-in, ski-out hotel, and I love how easy the whole process is.

Ski In, Ski Out in Courchevel

I also love that I remember how to ski. After a few uneasy turns, I get the hang of it again, and soon I’m enjoying the powder in the clear alpine sun.

The resort has a good mix of terrain, allowing me to transition from easy slopes to more difficult ones as I get expert pointers from my instructor, Francis.

Restaurants at Le Portetta and Beyond

But skiing isn’t all Courchevel has to offer. Away from the slopes, I discover that one of my favorite things about skiing in the French Alps is the food.

Every day my group sits outside at the Fire & Ice bar at Le Portetta lunching on fresh pizzas topped with colorful vegetables and decadent foie gras. It certainly beats the bland burgers I grew up with while skiing in Lake Tahoe.

In the evenings, we enjoy Italian cuisine at the hotel’s Cucina Angelina. We also visit a local restaurant in Courchevel Village (also called Courchevel 1550).

The ambiance is rustic and makes us feel like we’re dining in someone’s home. The food is served family-style and everything from the magret de canard to the Chantilly cream is delicious.

Things to Do in Courchevel

Up in Courchevel (also called Courchevel 1850), luxury is the main event.

This part of the resort is famous for its high-end shopping and luxury lifestyle, and the streets are lined with Dior, Prada, Chanel, and every other luxury goods store imaginable.

Everyone we see looks like—and probably is—a Russian oligarch. Even the dogs wear fur.

But there’s fun to be had in this part of Courchevel, too. We get sleds from a shop on the winding high street and take them over to a dedicated sled run that goes all the way down to Courchevel Village.

It’s a bit scary at first, but once we get the hang of flying down the snowy hills, we have a good time.

Apres Ski

Back in Courchevel Moriond, we discover the apres ski scene. Starting at Le Bubble Bar, we line up along an old ski studded with shot glasses and take a group shot of something I don’t care to remember.

Next up is the Funky Fox, a bar packed with young people listening to live music. We spend most of the evening dancing here, then some of the group moves on to a club.

In the morning, the fresh alpine air and a day on the slopes are the best cures for our night of excess. As I continue to find my ski legs, I fall more in love with Courchevel, its great skiing, and its beautiful scenery.

Were to Stay in Courchevel 1650

At the end of it all, I head to the spa at Le Portetta for the sauna, steam room, and a massage that rubs away aches in muscles I didn’t realize I needed for skiing.

It’s the perfect finish to my ski trip to Courchevel, and a great start to my travels back to London. Now that I know how easy—and fun—it is to go skiing in the Alps, I think I might be hooked.

Which is good, because I’m heading to St Moritz in the Swiss Alps next. But when I come back to France, I know just where to stay in Courchevel.

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