Today I want to share my Vila Nova de Gaia travel guide with you. Right across the Douro River from Porto, this Portuguese city is known for being the home of the port wine industry.
Vila Nova de Gaia
I like wine. I won’t lie; it’s one of my favorite things to drink. When I travel to a country that produces it, I like to go to the source and taste the offerings.
From Australia to South Africa, New Zealand to California, I’ve done the wine regions of many countries. But while my knowledge of wine has grown over the years, my knowledge of port has not.
As such, when I was invited on a press trip to Portugal to spend four days learning about the Portuguese wine and port industry, I gladly accepted.
I started my trip with 24 hours in Porto, the most famous city for Port wine. But what most people don’t know is that Porto isn’t the most important city for port in Portugal. That title belongs to another place: Vila Nova de Gaia.
Port Wine in Vila Nova de Gaia
Located in northern Portugal, Vila Nova de Gaia—or Gaia as the locals call it—is best known for its biggest export: port wine.
All the major producers in the nearby Douro Valley have their port houses in Vila Nova de Gaia, making it the epicenter of the industry.
And the industry dates back a long time. While the exact history of port wine is debatable, the generally accepted version is that in the early 18th century, England went to war with France and needed to find an alternative trading partner to keep its wine-thirsty citizens happy. Enter Portugal.
The only drawback was that Portuguese wine, which was produced inland in the Douro Valley, would often go bad by the time it made its way to England by sea.
Then someone discovered that when a bit of brandy or spirit was added to it, the wine not only arrived in England unspoiled, but also delicious. Thus the port wine industry that has flourished for centuries was born.
Vila Nova de Gaia’s role in the port trade has always been a pivotal one.
Back in the days before the Douro River was dammed, wine producers in the Douro Valley would send their barrels down the rushing river on a precarious journey to Gaia.
Once there, it would be stored and aged until it was ready to be shipped to its final destination.
Over the centuries, technological advances improved shipping methods and today the wine is brought to Vila Nova de Gaia in trucks.
But many port houses still age their wines and ports in the city and a feeling of history permeates the area.
The Yeatman in Vila Nova de Gaia
I arrived in Vila Nova de Gaia on a Sunday evening. The city is located on the Douro River, and like it’s neighbor Porto, Gaia ascends steeply uphill from the water.
Our driver took us to the very top of the hill to The Yeatman, a five-star luxury hotel in Vila Nova de Gaia with stunning views of Porto. The golden light of late afternoon illuminated the hills and river below, leaving us all in awe.
We were at The Yeatman for dinner, but before we ate, we went on a quick tour. The hotel had a unique concept created by the people behind Taylor’s, which had its famous port house next door.
The idea was for the hotel to promote all Portuguese wines and ports, rotating featured producers regularly.
The Yeatman itself was beautiful, with opulent decor that stayed on the right side of good taste and guest rooms that all had views over the Douro River and Vila Nova de Gaia.
There was a decanter-shaped swimming pool, huge terraced lawns, and balconies for outdoor enjoyment.
Naturally, there was also a wine cellar filled with wine from all over the world and port from the region. Upstairs was a restaurant where we sat down to enjoy the wine and dine on Michelin-starred cuisine.
Dinner at The Yeatman started off on a positive note, with amazing local olive oil and several amuse bouches that impressed us. The most memorable was a thin wafer cone filled with sea urchin mousse and caviar.
From there the meal went from salt cod to steak, finishing off with a cherry-inspired dessert and petit fours.
Port Tasting in Vila Nova de Gaia
The next morning we were back in Vila Nova de Gaia for a tour and tasting at Graham’s, one of the largest and most well-known port wine houses in Portugal.
There we met Raul, our guide for the morning and one of the most enthusiastic people I’ve ever met.
Raul took us through the cellars at Graham’s, explaining the port-making process and the difference between ruby, tawny, Late Bottled Vintage (LBV), and vintage port.
He also told us about white port and rose port, and showed us a map of the Douro Valley with all the different vineyards on it.
By the end of the tour, we felt like we had a pretty good knowledge of port. It was a good thing, too, because when we went back to the tasting room, there were a lot of wines and ports to try.
We started with two wines from the company’s Altano label, then a delicious one from their Post Scriptum label.
From there we sampled ruby, tawny, LBV, and vintage ports from Graham’s and is sister labels, Dow’s and Warre’s. I liked the tawny and vintage ones the best.
Before going port tasting in Vila Nova de Gaia, I never realized how many different kinds of port there were and how each one tasted distinctly unique from the others.
Even the colors varied widely from the dark red of the ruby ports to the brownish amber of the tawny ports.
At the end, we were treated to special tasting of a tawny port from 1882. It was coffee-colored and had hints of coffee and chocolate on the nose. It went down almost too easily, and had us wanting more.
Vila Nova de Gaia to the Douro Valley
Thankfully, we were heading straight from Vila Nova de Gaia to the Douro Valley. Our Portugal itinerary was about to continue with three more days of wine and Port tasting.
If I didn’t leave Portugal an expert on port wine, it would be by no fault of my hosts. To be continued…
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Very interesting! I thought port was port…I too didn’t know there were so many varieties. And I’m in love with the pool with views at the Yeatman…looks fabulous!
Glad you liked it, Pam! I was surprised by the number of Port varieties, too. I also agree with you about the pool. It was gorgeous!
This is truly a dream trip for me! INCREDIBLE!!!!!
Thanks Andi!