Lady’s Guide to the Cologne Christmas Markets

Today I want to bring you my guide to visiting the Cologne Christmas markets in Germany. Dotted throughout the city center, they’re great places to get into the seasonal spirit.

Cologne Christmas Markets

When my flight landed at Dusseldorf airport the border agent asked me why I was visiting Germany. “The Christmas markets in Cologne,” I told him. “Ugh. Why do all you foreigners like them so much?” he asked. I was nervous.

The seven Cologne Christmas markets are famous all over the world, and yet the first person I met when I arrived suggested they were overrated. Was it true? Had I flown all the way to Germany to be disappointed?

How to Get to the Cologne Christmas Markets

I was going to find out. I left customs and found the car rental desk at the airport. I picked up my shiny BMW in the adjacent parking lot before heading out.

It was both fun and fitting to drive a BMW in Germany, and it got me to Cologne in a quick 40 minutes.

1. Old Town Christmas Market in Cologne

Once there, I parked in a garage at Heumarkt and emerged above ground to find myself right in the middle of Cologne’s Old Town Christmas Market.

The market was called “Home of the Gnomes”, and tiny behatted men could be spotted standing on the roofs of chalets, swinging from motorized merry-go-rounds, and sitting on the counters of artisan stalls.

Apart from gnomes, the Old Town Christmas Market in Cologne had all of the traditional elements of a proper German market.

There were rows of chalets selling everything from ornaments to wooden carvings, and others vending steaming plates of sauerkraut and hot Gluhwein.

There was also a Christmas-themed Ferris wheel and an ice skating rink to round out the festive atmosphere.

I walked through the market perusing the goods and let myself be tempted by a big bowl of Schupfnudeln.

The potato dumplings were smothered in creme fraiche, sauerkraut, pepper, fresh herbs, and onions, and were the perfect antidote to a cold winter day.

2. Christmas Market at Cologne Cathedral

After lunch I walked through the narrow streets of the old town until I reached the next of the Cologne Christmas markets: the Christmas Market at Cologne Cathedral.

The stunning church provided a beautiful backdrop to the colorful festivities of the market, which was the largest and most famous in the city.

While the Christmas market in Cologne’s old town felt like an enchanted forest, the market at the cathedral was much more modern.

Bright red roofs topped each chalet, and in the center of the market was a giant Christmas tree. Spokes of lights flew off the branches in every direction, creating a twinkling canopy over the market.

I walked around for a while, sampling salami and cheese before buying Christmas presents. The market was packed with people enjoying the atmosphere, so at one point I took a break and headed into Cologne Cathedral for some respite.

The interior was beautiful, and being there revealed why people come from all over the world just to see it. The high ceilings rose up into the celestial realm while the stained-glass windows and thousands of candles proffered a soft, muted light.

Back out in the Cologne Cathedral Christmas market, I made a final round before heading out towards the Rhine.

3. Cologne Christmas Market at the Chocolate Museum

My next stop was the Cologne Christmas Market at the Chocolate Museum. Situated on a long, thin island in the river, the market was decorated all in white.

The chalet rooftops were sleek peaks pointing up to the sky like so many snow-capped Alps.

This loveliest of Cologne Christmas markets was smaller than the other two I had seen, and less crowded. I walked right up to chalets selling chocolate, wooden toys, candied nuts, and paper lanterns.

I also passed by a stall with a giant pirate ship on top of it, which was fitting for a market on the river.

4. Angel’s Christmas Market at Neumarkt Square

At the end of my stroll, I walked across the bridge and back to the mainland for a trip to the last of the Cologne Christmas markets I had time to see: the Angel’s Christmas Market at Neumarkt Square.

It was a short walk from the market in the old town, and it ended up being my favorite festive market of the day.

The Angel’s Christmas Market was replete with white wood chalets, each of which featured a unique mascot on its facade. From angels to reindeer, they were all decorated for the season.

The chalets sold familiar goods, including nativity scenes, miniature porcelain houses, hot bratwurst, and Gluhwein in decorative mugs. Everywhere I looked people were enjoying the winter festivities.

There was something peaceful about the Christmas market that transcended the crowds, the cold, and the drizzle.

The smell of roasting meat and toasting chestnuts, the music of the season, and the beauty of the decor whisked me off into a winter wonderland.

Best Cologne Christmas Markets

At the end of my visit to the Angel’s Christmas Market, I headed back to my car. I was sad that I didn’t have time to visit the remaining three markets, but with only one short day in the city, I couldn’t get to all of them.

As I drove to Dusseldorf airport in a torrential downpour, I thought back to what the border agent said to me that morning.

Despite his lack of enthusiasm, I had enjoyed the Cologne Christmas Markets and found their festive atmosphere a great escape from the monotony of winter.

It was too bad that he didn’t appreciate such a great aspect of Germany’s annual Christmas celebrations, but I’m glad he seemed to be the only one.

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