Today I want to share my guide to spending 24 hours in Split, Croatia. This coastal city is a great place to visit if you love history and the sea in equal measure.
24 Hours in Split
Diocletian was a bit crazy. Among other things, the Roman emperor believed he was Jupiter and enjoyed killing people who thought otherwise. But in spite of his flaws, he managed to build a pretty impressive retirement home in Croatia.
Diocletian’s Palace in Split is one of the best-preserved Roman palaces in the world, and the only one that still functions as a living city. And that’s why I can’t wait to spend 24 hours in Split.
Split Tour
The tourism board has set me up with a private tour of Split led by Vjeran, a guide who brings the city to life with his knowledge and passion. We start where any tour of Split should start: in front of the palace.
Diocletian’s Palace is unique not only in that it’s still standing, but also in that people have taken over the old rooms and squares, turning it into a modern city within ancient walls.
Homes, shops, restaurants, and cafes all function within the thick stone perimeter, and the phenomenon of walking out of a store and coming face-to-face with an ancient vestibule or imperial mausoleum is both unique and awe-inspiring.
Throughout the tour of Split, we visit everything from the palace basement to the ancient Temple of Jupiter. The former used to house olive oil presses, but is now better known as a filming location for Game of Thrones.
The latter was converted into a baptistery after Diocletian’s death, and is now home to a baptismal font with a beautiful 11th-century marble relief. It’s the oldest in Europe depicting a king.
We also see Diocletian’s mausoleum during the tour of Split. It was converted into a cathedral after the emperor passed—the Christians he persecuted certainly got their revenge.
The church has impressive Roman design, with massive columns leading my eyes up to the domed ceiling.
The history here is amazing, and reminds me of Damascus, where I saw temples that had become churches and then mosques over the centuries.
And speaking of religious sites, we visit the synagogue in Split. Formerly two houses belonging to Carmelite nuns, the synagogue dates back to the early 16th century and is decorated in 18th-century style.
A meeting place for the city’s 100-strong Jewish community, it’s now known for being the third oldest active synagogue in Europe.
And speaking of the third oldest things in Europe, down the street is the third oldest bookstore in Europe. Dating back to 1860, there’s still a shop on the site selling books today.
If I didn’t have just 24 hours in Split, I would spend all day exploring what’s inside.
The arts are strong in Split, too. In Diocletian’s round vestibule, Klapa singers perform emotional a cappella songs for passers-by, taking advantage of the domed room’s great acoustics.
Their music is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site status of the palace, and they perform daily to keep the tradition alive.
Artisans in the city do the same with the plastic arts. The same family has run the tiny Zlatar Filigran shop on Bosanska for generations.
They make filigree jewelry and cuff links by hand, and are one of the few traditional artisan shops left in the city center.
The proprietor gives me a warm welcome as Vjeran offers a crash course in how filigree is done.
Other artistic treasures I discover during my 24 hours in Split include the statues of several of the city’s heroes. The most famous of these is the statue of Grgur Ninski, a famous 10th-century religious leader in Croatia.
Celebrated Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic—who was the first person to have a solo show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York—created the iconic statue of him that sits outside the palace’s Golden Gate.
Legend has it that if you rub the big toe, you’ll have good luck.
And right now I’m lucky to be right down the street from the city’s open-air Green Market. I wander through the stalls, taking in everything from bright orange persimmons to fat green grapes.
Colorful bouquets of flowers line the perimeter, dotting the market with brilliant colors.
Split Beaches
And after exploring the goods, I’m ready for a break from the bustle of the city. With only 24 hours in Split, I want to make sure I hit the beach for a while.
Split has beaches within easy reach of Diocletian’s Palace and the cafes along the Riva waterfront.
I spend the afternoon walking along the rocky white shores past rows of yachts that sit like floating white whales in Podstrana’s marina.
Afterwards I relax at my hotel, Le Meridien Lav Split. It’s right on the waterfront and a great place to stay on the coast.
24 Hours in Split, Croatia
Soaking up the vibe at the hotel is a lovely way to end my 24 hours in Split, not least because it proves there’s more to the city than just Diocletian’s Palace.
Then again, I wouldn’t mind seeing what else the megalomaniac emperor could come up with. If he was crazy enough to build temples to himself, he might have had some great ideas for beach bars.
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What a fascinating tale! Does make me wonder if Diocletian was experiencing some serious delusions though but what a great palace!
Haha, yeah, I think he probably had some mental health issues! It’s a fun place to visit all the same!
I liked Split. The highlight for me were the markets.
Nice!
That’s a great round up of what Split has to offer, Julie. I still have to make it there, so I hope to visit that bookstore. By the way, did you make it to Hvar?
I hope you can make it to Split sometime! I went to Hvar last time I was in Split, but not on this trip.
You certainly made the most of those 24 hours! I spent three nights in Split and loved getting lost in the old city’s winding lanes. It’s really amazing how the city developed IN the palace!
Yeah, it’s such a unique thing that people live in the palace!
Loved reading this as I did very similar things in Split this August, although hadn’t heard of the bookstore! My favourite memory is being sat by the water at sunset. Beautiful place, great history 🙂
Sitting by the water at sunset sounds amazing! Split is such a magical place.