Lady in Lima

Not many people like Lima. When I told my friends that I was traveling to Peru, they all advised me to skip the capital. From what they said, Lima sounded like a dangerous place with nothing to do and see. But I’ve heard the same thing about other cities, and I’ve never found it to be true. I had a feeling that Lima would impress me. And it did.

Boats in the harbor in Lima Peru

I already knew about Lima’s reputation of having the best restaurants in South America. I also knew that the pretty Miraflores neighborhood showed the city at its best. But there were other things to learn, and I was lucky enough to have a native limeño as my guide.

Colorful buildings in the Barranco district in Lima Peru

The PR director of Inca Rail, with whom I had enjoyed lunch in Cuzco the prior week, happened to be in Lima while I was visiting. He generously offered to take me around his home city for the afternoon, and I happily took him up on it.

Cross on a vista point in Lima Peru

As soon as my flight from La Paz landed at the airport, I took a taxi to the main park in Miraflores. There I met my guide, who walked with me to the nearby cliffs. Pretty parks and gardens, including the famous Lovers’ Park with its sculpture of a couple kissing, overlooked the Pacific Ocean.

Lovers' park in Lima Peru

After walking by the parks, we hailed a taxi and took a tour of some of Lima’s other waterfront neighborhoods. First we passed through Barranco, a lovely area to the south of Miraflores. It was dotted with historic homes and several museums. South of there was Chorrillos, where we drove up a steep hill to a vista point that overlooked all of Lima.

Church in Barranco in Lima Peru

From the top we could see the entire urban area, which sprawled in every direction from the ocean in the west to the mountains in the east. With only one day in Lima, there was no way I could see it all, but I was happy to settle for the highlights.

Beach in Lima Peru

One of them was the next stop on our Lima tour: a waterfront restaurant called El Salto del Fraile, or the Friar’s Jump. Apparently the place was named after a friar that jumped to his death in the Pacific from the rocks next to the restaurant.

El Salto del Fraile restaurant in Lima Peru

We went to to El Salto del Fraile to watch another friar jump to his death from the high rocks above the ocean. Or at least we watched a guy dressed in friar-like robes jump off the cliff into the foaming water below. He did it for tips. We obliged.

Man jumping off a rock cliff at El Salto del Fraile restaurant in Lima Peru

From there we drove back into Miraflores to go to another dining establishment. Las Brujas de Cachiche was one of the best restaurants in Lima, and its buffet lunch was the perfect way to taste food from all over Peru.

Ceviche at Las Brujas de Cachiche restaurant in Lima Peru

Making several rounds at the buffet, we tried everything from fresh ceviche and tiradito de pescado (fresh fish with yellow sauce) to aji de gallina (a spicy, creamy chicken dish) and tacu tacu (rice and beans).

Tiradito de pescado at Las Brujas de Cachiche restaurant in Lima Peru

We samples tamales, arroz con pato (rice with duck), yuca balls, chicharrones, and my favorite, chicha morada. It was a purple drink made from corn, and it was delicious.

Lunch at Las Brujas de Cachiche restaurant in Lima Peru

While we were eating, the godfather of modern Peruvian cuisine himself walked into the restaurant. Dr. Cesar A. Alcorta y Suero came by to say hello, and told me about his philosophy of staying true to the roots of classic Peruvian cuisine while enriching it with traditional family recipes.

Dessert at Las Brujas de Cachiche restaurant in Lima Peru

After lunch we needed something to lure us out of our food comas. This came in the form of espressos at a famous coffee shop in Lima called Haiti. Located right across the street from the main park in Miraflores, it was the perfect place to people watch.

Sculpture in a waterfront park in Lima Peru

But looking at people wasn’t all we had in store for the afternoon. Soon we were off to the Mercado Indio market to view all of the Peruvian handicrafts for sale. When we arrived, my guide informed me that the market sold everything that all of the other markets around the country offered, but at lower prices.

Finger puppets at the Mercado Indio in Lima Peru

For the next hour I lost myself in the maze of stalls, awestruck by the gleaming silver pieces, colorful woven goods, and beautiful beads. Tiny finger puppets waved their knitted hands as stuffed guinea pigs, llamas, and alpacas surveyed the scene with watchful eyes.

War memorial in Lima Peru

It was about time I surveyed my watch with watchful eyes, too. My flight to Madrid was due to depart that evening, and I needed to wrap up my Lima tour to travel back to Europe. I thanked my guide, without whom I wouldn’t have had such a great time in the city, and hopped into a taxi to go to the airport.

Man jumping off a cliff by El Salto del Fraile restaurant in Lima Peru

And so I said good-bye to South America. My 10 days there were far too short to explore everything the region had to offer, but long enough to fall in love with the landscapes, food, people, and culture. The same went for Lima. After learning not to listen to the naysayers, I left even more impressed than I suspected I would be. But now that I knew that the city had so much to offer, I was sure I would come back someday to see the rest. And the remainder of Peru and Bolivia. And all of South America…

4 Comments on Lady in Lima

  1. Emily Richardson
    April 22, 2012 at 2:30 pm (3 years ago)

    Great post on Lima, Julie! I went a couple of years ago and stayed in Miraflores. Very pretty and safer than other parts of the city. Capitol area has beautiful architecture, but was a little sketchy. Although great shopping!

    Congrats on reaching 90 under 30!

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      April 25, 2012 at 10:30 pm (3 years ago)

      Thanks Emily! I’m glad you enjoyed Miraflores!

      Reply
  2. Alberto
    July 18, 2012 at 2:12 am (2 years ago)

    I lived in Miraflores and I am glad you stay here and got a glance of this wonderful place where never rains, never snows and where some of the most amazing restuarants of the country get together

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      July 18, 2012 at 1:45 pm (2 years ago)

      Thanks Alberto. I loved Miraflores, and am jealous that you get to live there!

      Reply

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