Lady in the Peak District

Nobody seems to know where the Peak District is. Despite the fact that it is right smack in the middle of England, surrounded by four major airports, and just 91 minutes by train from London, it seems to get overlooked in favor of other UK travel destinations or confused with the Lake District or Yorkshire.

Kedleston Hall in the Peak District

It’s funny that the region is so little known, though, not least because the Peak District and Derbyshire—with which it overlaps—are famous settings for the likes of Jane Austen novels and Jane Eyre films.

Haddon Hall gardens in the Derbyshire

In fact, there are at least three stately homes in the region that feature in a number of well-known films. One is Chatsworth, the residence of the Duke of Devonshire and the home of Mr. Darcy in the most recent film adaptation of Pride and Prejudice.

Chatsworth in the Peak District

A second is Kedleston Hall, which plays a starring role in the movie The Duchess.

Kedleston Hall in Derbyshire

A third is Haddon Hall, a medieval fairytale of an estate where all of the millions of TV and movie versions of Jane Eyre have been filmed.

Haddon Hall in Derbyshire

Given the Peak District’s famous film locations and my love of all things historic, when VisitEngland invited me to travel to the region to experience the three properties firsthand, I couldn’t say no.

Haddon Hall gardens in Peak District

On Saturday morning I boarded a big red bus with a group of other travel bloggers and journalists and spent four hours heading north to Derbyshire. We arrived at our hotel, Breadsall Priory, in the afternoon just as the sun was illuminating the beautiful gardens and golf courses.

Breadsall Priory hotel in Derbyshire

I checked into my room, which was spacious and light, then headed to a historic part of the hotel for a big buffet lunch overlooking a manicured lawn with a fountain. It was there that I learned that the hotel was over 700 years old and used to belong to Charles Darwin’s family. Not bad!

Lunch at Breadsall Priory hotel in Derbyshire

As if that wasn’t enough history, our first stop in the Peak District was Chatsworth. The stunning stately home stood proudly, surrounded by dazzling green gardens and a bucolic stream.

Chatsworth in Derbyshire

Inside Chatsworth was a wealth of art ranging from Old Masters to contemporary works. In addition, there were impressive collections of everything from Neoclassical sculpture (including the fake bust of Mr. Darcy created for the filming of Pride and Prejudice) to first edition books.

Chatsworth in Derbyshire

The library alone was enough to make me want to move in, park myself in front of the fireplace, and never leave. But the grounds outside were enough to lure me into the fresh air, what with the stunning water feature and the historic hunting tower that can now be rented out for short stays.

Veiled sculpture in Chatsworth in the Peak District

After exploring Chatsworth, we made a quick stop for afternoon tea in a nearby village called Edensor, where the Dowager Duchess of Devonshire lives. The thick slices of carrot cake and copious cups of tea gave us the energy we needed for our next stately home tour in Derbyshire: Kedleston Hall.

Afternoon tea in Edensor in the Peak District

Kedleston was just as impressive as Chatsworth, what with its Robert Adam-designed Palladian architecture and undulating grounds full of pretty bridges and woolly sheep. The house was used extensively for the filming of The Duchess, but its real history was equally fascinating.

Kedleston Hall in the Peak District

In particular, the story of young Mary Curzon—an American heiress who became Baroness Curzon of Kedleston and Vicereine of India—piqued my curiosity. She not only held the highest position an American woman ever had in the British Empire, but also served as the model for Lady Grantham in the popular TV series Downton Abbey.

Kedleston Hall in the Peak District

After learning all about Kedleston Hall and the films that were made there, we went outside to watch Pride and Prejudice at an outdoor cinema in the garden. It was amazing to watch the film in the area where the footage was shot, and great to see scenes that were filmed at Chatsworth and other parts of the Peak District.

Outdoor cinema at Kedleston Hall in Derbyshire

And there were some added bonuses. First, we had a gorgeous picnic dinner with local food from around Derbyshire, including wine made in the area. Additionally, the landscape behind the screen matched the setting of the film perfectly, and the baa-ing of so many sheep was a very authentic addition to the audio portion of the film.

Picnic at an outdoor cinema at Kedleston Hall

Yesterday morning we woke up early and were off to our third stately home tour in Derbyshire: Haddon Hall. Older and more medieval than Chatsworth and Kedleston, Haddon Hall was reminiscent of Hampton Court Palace, with its 15th-century wooden interiors.

Haddon Hall in Derbyshire

Much of the furniture was original, which was great to see, as were the medieval kitchens and stunning woodcarvings in the drawing room. In the Long Gallery there was an exhibition with costumes from the various versions of Jane Eyre that had been filmed in Haddon Hall.

Long Gallery in Haddon Hall in Derbyshire

Outside were beautiful gardens. They were wilder than the ones at the other stately homes we visited, but just as stunning. In the distance were stone bridges over rivers and curious cows grazing in the fields.

Haddon Hall in the Peak District

Closer in was a Norman chapel that featured stunning art and beautiful woodwork.

Haddon Hall in the Peak District

The sense of history that pervaded the whole estate made Haddon Hall my favorite of the three stately homes I toured in the Peak District.

Haddon Hall in Derbyshire

After our visit, we drove down the road to The Peacock at Rowlsey Bed and Breakfast. The hotel was a preferred place to stay for the likes of Keira Knightley, Dame Judy Dench, and other celebrities while they filmed in Derbyshire.

Peacock at Rowlsey Bed and Breakfast in Derbyshire

We weren’t there to stay, though, but to experience the restaurant. The hotel set up a private dining room for us, and served an excellent meal of pea soup, roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, and all the trimmings one would expect from a proper Sunday Roast.

Sunday roast at the Peacock at Rowlsey Bed and Breakfast in the Peak District

While we ate, we learned about the movie stars that had stayed at The Peacock at Rowlsey. We even got to see the guest book they signed and the DVDs they autographed for the hotel. It was a fitting way to end our travels in the Peak District given that they had focused so much on film.

Dining room at the Peacock at Rowlsey Bed and Breakfast in Derbyshire

But that wasn’t the only thing there was to do in the region. There were plenty of places for adventure travel, outdoor activities, shopping, retail therapy, and more. There were even bizarre little towns like Matlock, which reminded me of Brighton or Llandudno with its endless variety of fish and chip shops and carnivalesque atmosphere.

Bust of Mr. Darcy at Chatsworth in the Peak District

Now that I know how close the Peak District and Derbyshire are to London, I might head back on my own to explore more of the region. Or just to reenact historic novels at my favorite stately homes.

12 Comments on Lady in the Peak District

  1. Natalie
    August 20, 2012 at 2:46 pm (2 years ago)

    If you liked these, I can recommend Hatfield House, even closer to London and just as amazing. :-)

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      August 20, 2012 at 2:57 pm (2 years ago)

      Thanks for the recommendation, Natalie! I will have to check out Hatfield House sometime!

      Reply
  2. Andi
    August 21, 2012 at 1:00 pm (2 years ago)

    I so love your life! The things you do and see…just amazing!!!

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      August 21, 2012 at 4:33 pm (2 years ago)

      Thanks Andi! I think the same could be said about your life!

      Reply
  3. Pam
    August 21, 2012 at 7:49 pm (2 years ago)

    I remember visiting the Duke of Devonshire’s house when I was 13! I was obsessed with it! I didn’t realize that was where Jane Eyre was filmed. I love all 3 of these estates you visited…now visit Downton Abbey’s real location! I love seeing all these great places!

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      August 22, 2012 at 4:05 pm (2 years ago)

      Thanks Pam! I’m visiting the filming location of Downton Abbey in September, so stay tuned!

      Reply
  4. Emily in Chile
    August 22, 2012 at 2:35 am (2 years ago)

    What a fabulous trip! I love the Peak District, and you’re making me think I may need to lobby for a few days at Chatsworth next time I’m in the UK (although I’m frightened to even look up the cost).

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      August 22, 2012 at 4:05 pm (2 years ago)

      Thanks Emily! You should definitely go if you get a chance next time you’re in the UK!

      Reply
  5. Lee
    September 6, 2012 at 9:46 am (2 years ago)

    The Peak District is a hidden gem in England. It really is beautiful and as you said it is pretty much bang on in the middle of England, so everyone can easily get to it. Wonder why they don’t though?

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      September 6, 2012 at 3:27 pm (2 years ago)

      Agreed!

      Reply
  6. Meggie
    September 11, 2012 at 8:12 pm (2 years ago)

    Next time you go to lovely Peak District you should go and see Lyme Park which was home to Mr. Darcy played by Colin Firth in the fantastic Pride and Prejudice series of 1997.

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      September 12, 2012 at 6:57 am (2 years ago)

      Thanks for the tip, Meggie! I will have to go there next time.

      Reply

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