Lady in Siem Reap

Siem Reap is magical. Full of centuries-old temples like the mighty Angkor Wat, the Cambodian city has intrigued me for years. The rich culture and deep history of the area beckoned for so long that this week I finally answered their siren call and traveled to Southeast Asia.

Sunrise at Angkor Wat in Siem Reap Cambodia

I arrived in Cambodia, the 83rd country on my 90 under 30 Travel Project, in the evening. After getting a visa and clearing customs at Siem Reap airport, I met the driver from my accommodation outside of the arrivals hall. It was a five-minute drive to the Alila Sothea Hotel, a luxury property in Siem Reap that had offered me a room for two nights.

Outdoor dining at the Alila Sothea hotel in Siem Reap Cambodia

When I arrived at the hotel, I was shown the beautiful outdoor courtyard, the airy restaurant, the spa, and the swimming pool. From there I went to my room, which was spacious and contained a large bed, two lounging sofas, a desk, a TV, and a bathroom with a shower and an enormous claw foot bathtub. The outer wall was all windows, one of which opened onto a private terrace that overlooked the pool. It was lovely.

Bathtub and bed in a guest room at the Alila Sothea hotel in Siem Reap Cambodia

Unfortunately, I didn’t spend long there. With only two days in Siem Reap, I had to maximize my time at the main attraction: the temples. On my first morning in the city, I woke up at 4:30am and was on the road in a hotel tuk tuk by 5am. I bought my visitor pass at an already crowded entry gate to the Angkor Archaeological Park, then proceeded to the first stop of the day: Angkor Wat.

Angkor Wat temple in Siem Reap Cambodia

Watching the sunrise at Angkor Wat was one of the most beautiful things I have seen on my travels. The towering cones of the temple were thrown into relief as the sky went from inky blue to light purple to bright pink. Hundreds of people lined the reflecting pool in front of the complex to photograph Angkor Wat at the first light of day.

Sunrise at Angkor Wat temple in Siem Reap Cambodia

After the sun came up I spent time exploring the large temple complex, then hopped back in my tuk tuk to visit several others. First there was Bayon, a beautiful temple in the ancient royal city of Angkor Thom. Near it were the Terrace of the Elephants, the Terrace of the Leper King, and the smaller Phimeanakas temple.

Statues at Angkor Thom in Siem Reap Cambodia

From Angkor Thom we traveled north to Preah Khan, a beautiful crumbling temple with a long series of doorways that decreased in size as they went.

People riding bicycles in Siem Reap Cambodia

Retracing our path, we drove to two small temples, Thommanom and Chau Say Thevoda, which were located across the street from one another right outside of Angkor Thom.

Thommanom temple in Siem Reap Cambodia

Those were followed by a visit to Ta Keo and Ta Prohm, the latter of which being where most of the iconic tree-in-temple photos of Siem Reap are taken.

Tree engulfing Ta Prohm temple in Siem Reap Cambodia

Over the course of many centuries, trees had grown up through the temple walls of Ta Prohm and many others, engulfing them in roots that looked like the legs of giant elephants. The result was picture pretty, but perilous for the temples. Many are undergoing restoration work to ensure that no further damage is done.

Tree growing up from Preah Khan temple in Siem Reap Cambodia

After visiting Ta Prohm, my driver took me to the Village Restaurant along the rectangular Sras Srang lake. My heaping plate of vegetable fried rice was greasy but filling, and welcome after a long morning of temple climbing in Cambodia.

Heads at Bayon temple in Siem Reap Cambodia

The next morning I was back on the temple trail, but this time my agenda was different. I was off to see some of the more remote temples to the north of the Angkor Archaeological Park. The first stop was Banteay Srey, which was also called the Ladies’ Temple. Dating back to the 10th century, the small temple was renowned for its intricate carvings.

Banteay Srey temple in Siem Reap Cambodia

After visiting the temple, we retraced our drive, passing by rows of market vendors making palm sugar and long strings of houses built on stilts until we reached the final temple of my Siem Reap travels: Pre Rup. The structure was stunning in its height and detail, and I felt no small sense of vertigo as I scaled the steep steps to the top.

After two mornings of seeing the temples in Siem Reap, I needed a bit of a break. This came in two forms: the town and the hotel. The main part of town was located five minutes’ drive from the Alila, and I availed myself of the hotel’s complimentary tuk tuk service several times.

Flip flops for sale at the night market in Siem Reap Cambodia

The city center was large and bustling, and there was no shortage of shops, restaurants, and bars to choose from. I visited night markets and day markets, chi chi boutiques like Wanderlust, Waterlily, Wild Poppy on Alley West, and Pub Street, with its famous late-night watering holes.

Sign for the night market in Siem Reap Cambodia

I dined at restaurants like the traditional Khmer Kitchen and the upscale AHA, and ate foods like pumpkin curry and green mango salad with dried snake. Yes, dried snake.

Green mango salad with dried snake at AHA restaurant in Siem Reap Cambodia

I walked by innumerable fish pedicure tanks and massage chairs, all of which were right out on the sidewalk providing easy access to participants and easy people watching to passers by.

Girls getting fish pedicures in Siem Reap Cambodia

Back at the hotel, I enjoyed a traditional Khmer massage at the spa. It was different from any massage I have ever had in that I was fully clothed in a loose fitting tunic and trousers, and the therapist used a combination of stretching and kneading techniques. It was pleasantly invigorating, and I felt great afterwards.

Massage table at the spa at the Alila hotel in Siem Reap Cambodia

I did not, however, feel great about the prospect of leaving Siem Reap. My two days there had been enjoyable, and I couldn’t help wanting to discover more temples, more of the city, and more relaxing experiences inside and outside of the hotel. But it was time to leave Siem Reap and Cambodia, and travel to the next destination on my Southeast Asia trip: the enchanting city of Luang Prabang, Laos.

14 Comments on Lady in Siem Reap

  1. Andrea
    February 17, 2012 at 3:36 pm (2 years ago)

    Siem Reap and Luang Prabang are two of my favorite places I have ever traveled to, I can’t wait to see your post about LP!

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      February 18, 2012 at 12:13 am (2 years ago)

      Thanks Andrea! I’m in Luang Prabang right now and have absolutely fallen in love with the place. I can’t wait to write about it!

      Reply
  2. Pam Green
    February 17, 2012 at 4:06 pm (2 years ago)

    This looks do interesting! It’s going on my list of travels for sure, minus the dried snake. Luang Prabang is supposed to be one if the most magical and beautiful places–definitely on my must-see list. Can’t wait to see your pics and hear all about it!

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      February 18, 2012 at 12:14 am (2 years ago)

      Thanks Pam! You should definitely travel to Cambodia and Laos sometime, and I agree that you should leave out the dried snake!

      Reply
  3. Emma
    February 17, 2012 at 4:14 pm (2 years ago)

    Your pictures are beautiful! What type of Camera do you use? I am looking at getting a new one before my trips to Europe this Summer

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      February 18, 2012 at 12:15 am (2 years ago)

      Thanks Emma! I’m glad you like the photos. I use a Canon 450D (if you’re in the US it’s called a Rebel). Mine is an older model, but there are newer ones out there that take even better quality photos.

      Reply
  4. Andi
    February 18, 2012 at 12:22 am (2 years ago)

    How could you leave that room??? AMAZING! But wow that sunset is insaaaaanely gorgeous. Take me there now!

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      February 18, 2012 at 12:25 am (2 years ago)

      Thanks Andi! The room was really nice, but the sunrise was worth waking up early for!

      Reply
  5. Pablo
    February 19, 2012 at 9:11 am (2 years ago)

    Holy cow! My best luxury is a 4 dollar room and 1 dollar meals, yummy!.

    Aladyinlondonwithalottacash

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      February 21, 2012 at 2:25 pm (2 years ago)

      Haha, thanks Pablo!

      Reply
  6. elizabethm
    February 19, 2012 at 8:13 pm (2 years ago)

    I have just spent a pleasant half hour reading your various posts having started with the visit to Llandudno. Great photos and lovely writing! I think we might need to bring you back to Wales though! Have you been to Chester? You could combine that with a trip to North East Wales and the extraordinary beauty of the Clwydian hills which are a real hidden gem.
    Enjoy your present trip.

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      February 21, 2012 at 2:26 pm (2 years ago)

      Thanks Elizabeth! I would love to go back and see more of Wales. I’ve never been to Chester, either, so it would be great to do a trip to combine the two!

      Reply
  7. Katherine
    March 8, 2012 at 8:08 pm (2 years ago)

    Wow! Reading this article makes me want to go visit this temple again and watch the sunrise. The temples offer a nice piece of cambodian history.

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      March 9, 2012 at 8:13 am (2 years ago)

      Thanks Katherine!

      Reply

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