A Lady in London

There’s nothing I like more than starting a week with a good meal. Since I am the world’s worst cook, I generally leave the food to the experts. Yesterday was no exception. I was invited to have lunch at The Grill at The Dorchester, a London restaurant in the famous luxury hotel on Park Lane that I had heard would more than fit the bill.

I arrived at The Grill at 1pm and met the restaurant’s PR for what turned out to be not just a good meal, but a divine dining experience that surpassed even my high expectations.

We settled into a comfortable table in the dining room, which was decorated in tartan theme with just the right amount of contemporary touches. The Champagne trolley arrived shortly thereafter, and we didn’t hesitate to indulge in a glass of Paul Berthelot Premier Cru Cuvee Rose NV.

As we sipped the bubbly, we looked over the menu. There was everything from chef Brian Hughson’s set menu to daily specials and classic items from the grill. It was difficult to decide, but eventually I chose to start with the wild Scottish smoked salmon and gravadlax.

It was a good choice. The salmon was one of The Grill at the Dorchester’s signature starters, and when the server brought a trolley to the table to carve it for me, I knew I was going to enjoy it. I did. The thinly sliced fish was light and fresh, with none of the fishy flavor that can plague smoked salmon. It was a winner, as was the glass of 2010 St. Clair, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand that the sommelier paired it with.

My lunch companion went with what looked like an equally good appetizer. The Isle of Mull scallops were topped with mussels and served with garlic broth, celeriac, and ginger in a presentation that looked as good as I heard it tasted. With it came a glass of Domaine Fourrey 2008 Premier Cru Chablis.

Our main courses were just as pretty to look at as the starters had been. I had the native lobster, which was roasted in vanilla butter and served with braised red onions, lobster mayonnaise, and bitter leaves. It looked like a work of art, and tasted like it, too. The lobster meat was rich and buttery with just the right amount of firmness. The accompanying flavors complimented it nicely. As an added bonus, the sommelier paired the dish with a glass of Gabriel Pagin & Fils Carte d’Or Blanc de Noirs made from 100% Pinot Meunier.

Across the table, a grilled Shropshire veal chop with braised red cabbage and veal breast ravioli was served and enjoyed with the same enthusiasm as my lobster. A side of buttered Chantenay carrots and a glass of 2008 Cambria Pinot Noir from Kendall Jackson in California rounded out the dish nicely.

For dessert I went with the peanut parfait with cherry jam and a dollop of sour cherry sorbet. To be honest, I wanted to try the dish because it seemed like a haute cuisine version of my favorite childhood lunch, the classic American peanut butter and jelly sandwich.

When I tasted the dish, I found that it was so much superior to PB&J that the two could only be compared in the sense that they contained the same combination of flavors. The peanut parfait was chilled and not too salty, and the cherry elements added a nice sweet, tart element that balanced the dish nicely. It beat my sandwiches without even trying.

I enjoyed my dessert while my lunch companion had a ginger and pumpkin coulant with stem ginger ice cream. The coulant resembled a cross between a small souffle and very light muffin, and looked like the perfect winter comfort food.

After eating at The Grill at The Dorchester, I knew that I had started my week with what was much more than just a good meal. I floated home to north London, wondering if a lunch of lobster and Champagne set the bar too high for the rest of the week. Or the year. Or my life.