Lady in Skopje

Skopje reminded me of Tomorrowland. I mean that in every sense of the word. In the Disneyland sense, it looked like a 1960’s version of what the future thankfully didn’t turn out to look like. In the modern sense, new, futuristic buildings and public spaces were popping up everywhere in the capital of Macedonia.

Bell tower of a church in Skopje Macedonia

There were two reasons for this. First, in the 1960’s an earthquake leveled most of the city. Skopje was largely rebuilt in the Brutalist style that most people think of when they imagine communist-era architecture in the Balkans.

Shopping mall in Skopje Macedonia

Much of the city center was characterized by gray buildings and strange space-age structures. This was not least personified by the post office, which was created to resemble an insect. It looked vaguely reminiscent of the old spaceship ride at the entrance to Tomorrowland.

Skopje post office building in Macedonia

Second, the powers that be in Skopje are on a building spree. From the brand new Museum of the Macedonian Struggle to the semi-finished triumphal arch, from the overabundance of sculptures in public spaces to the grandiose statue-fountain-and-light-show combination, the city has entered the 21st century with a riot of construction.

Statue in the main square in Skopje Macedonia

Never mind that most of the construction is in the neoclassical style. Every city has to have its share of buildings that make it look like the center of a great empire. And Skopje does have some claim on that status, what with Macedonia being the birthplace of Alexander the Great.

New construction in Skopje Macedonia

I witnessed all of the old and the neoclassical when I arrived in Skopje on a three-hour-and-45-minute bus ride from Lake Ohrid. After taking a taxi to Hotel 7, my accommodation in Skopje for the next two days, I settled into my room and walked the 15-minute distance into the city center.

Bed in a room in Hotel 7 in Skopje Macedonia

On the way, I walked down a large pedestrian street filled with cafes, bars, and shops. At one point there was a small square next to which stood the new Mother Teresa Memorial House, a museum dedicated to the life of one of Skopje’s most famous inhabitants.

Mother Teresa Memorial House in Skopje Macedonia

A bit further up the street was the main square, Plostad Makedonija. In it was the aforementioned grandiose statue-fountain-and-light-show combination, as well as a Greek-looking temple and a smattering of sculptures and statues. It was surrounded by an eclectic mix of architectural styles that ranged from fin de siecle to “Tito special” and a contemporary building that was buried under scaffolding. It was intense.

Statue in Plostad Makedonija in Skopje

The square was built right next to the Vardar River, over which the historic Kamen Most bridge rested. Said structure transported me from the modern era to the Ottoman Empire. Gone was Tomorrowland. Here was Yesteryear.

Building in Carsija in Skopje Macedonia

But as I delved deeper into the Carsija neighborhood, I realized that the narrow lanes and bazaar-like atmosphere were only a facade. In reality, this too was Tomorrowland.

Building in Skopje Macedonia

I walked past old Turkish baths that retained their 15th century exteriors but now housed contemporary art museums. I ducked my head into historic courtyards that featured modern restaurants. And I walked down ancient narrow streets with shops that sold sparkling new gold jewelry and white wedding dresses.

Old Turkish baths in Skopje

Up the hill was a fortress that seemed to hold the promise of history. But it too was just a front. The entrance was closed, and inside the castle walls were bulldozers and land movers, all of which were working to make something modern.

Castle in Skopje Macedonia

Back over the bridge, I stumbled upon a folk festival in Skopje. A live band played traditional Macedonian music, and large groups of children dressed in regional costumes took turns performing dances for a crowd in front of the river. It was tomorrow’s generation celebrating yesterday’s cultural feats, and was perfectly fitting with the surroundings.

Children dancing at a folk festival in Skopje Macedonia

The following night there was more activity in the square. People were out in droves—old people, young couples, parents, children, babies in carriages—and everyone was enjoying the evening. The fountain was lit up like a Disney Electrical Parade, and looked as if it were having a good time as well.

Fountain in the main square in Skopje Macedonia

As I made my way back to my hotel, the pedestrianized street was booming with live concerts, busy bars, and pop-up restaurants in the middle of the streets. If this frenetic scene was any indication of the Skopje of tomorrow, it is going to be a very exciting place.

9 Comments on Lady in Skopje

  1. Emily in Chile
    September 27, 2011 at 5:33 pm (3 years ago)

    Wow, that is definitely a mix of architectural styles!

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      September 28, 2011 at 6:29 am (3 years ago)

      Emily – Yeah, it was really interesting to see them all together!

      Reply
  2. bluepop
    September 28, 2011 at 10:41 am (3 years ago)

    Are they gonna retain that Macedonian fortress? It’s beautiful. You’re right, Skopje if full of promise. I can imagine the possibilities.

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      September 28, 2011 at 2:47 pm (3 years ago)

      It looks like they are going to retain the fortress, bluepop. They were bulldozing inside of it, but the walls seem to be untouched. I really hope they don’t change too much, as it’s a beautiful structure with so much history!

      Reply
  3. Nikola
    October 5, 2011 at 12:05 am (3 years ago)

    About the fortress, I think that they were rebuilding the old church that was revealed some couple of years ago.”In late 2006 and early 2007, research and excavation of the Skopje Fortress funded by the Macedonian government had finally commenced. Researchers discovered woodwind instruments and clay ornaments dating as far back as 3000 B.O.T. Excavation of the main fortress also revealed houses below the fortress’ visible level. The discoveries are believed to have belonged to inhabitants of Scupi on which the fortress was built. Archaeological excavations continued in 2009.[3]

    In May 2010, archeologists unearthed the largest stash of Byzantine coins ever found in Macedonia at the fortress.[4]

    After the foundations of a 13th century church (in fact, one of three) were found within the complex, the Cultural Heritage Protection Office actioned a project to restore it in the form of a church museum. Ethnic Albanian groups, with DUI at the forefront, claimed the site contained an older Illyrian structure, and that by virtue of their claimed Illyrian ancestry, that the site should be theirs” (wikipedia)

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      October 6, 2011 at 10:42 am (3 years ago)

      Thanks for the information, Nikola! That makes a lot of sense. I hope I can see the new museum on my next visit!

      Reply
  4. Peter
    November 9, 2011 at 3:21 pm (3 years ago)

    Heya Lady! Thanks for sharing your photos and experiences. It looks like a cool place to visit.
    I stumbled on your blog by googling Macedonia.
    Cheers!

    Reply
  5. annie
    August 31, 2012 at 12:39 am (2 years ago)

    OMG! There’s like European, Communist and Muslim architecture all in 1 place. Wanna go there so bad!

    Reply
    • aladyinlondon
      August 31, 2012 at 10:05 am (2 years ago)

      Yeah, it’s a really great city for architecture!

      Reply

Leave a Reply